In 1935, the Institut National des Appellations d’Origine (INAO) was created to delimit and enforce France’s wine appellation system.
The Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée system, using early, self-imposed guidelines in Châteauneuf-du-Pape as a model, stipulated limits on yields, vineyard density, training and pruning techniques, grape varieties, methods of production, minimum alcohol levels, minimum must weights, and the geographical boundaries of each appellation. AOC wines must pass a tasting panel. The Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) became a model for many other European appellation systems, as France’s controlled appellations assured authenticity and, to a degree, style. The INAO awarded the first AOCs in 1936; by 2017, 363 AOC appellations were granted for wine and brandy, while nearly 100 more were awarded to agricultural products (such as cheese and other foods). Over 75% of France’s wines and eaux-de-vie were released as AOC—hardly the intention of the system’s original proponents, who wished to protect and enshrine France’s most valuable wines. Like most appellation systems, France’s AOC had become a bloated category and one not necessarily indicative of quality.In 2007, the INAO, which oversees the protected appellations of wines, spirits, cheeses, and other foodstuffs, became the L’Institut National de l’Origine et de la Qualité—although it retained its former acronym. The INAO brought its appellation system in line with new EU standards in 2009 and established the category of Appellation d’Origine Protégée (AOP). French AOPs fall within the EU’s Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) category, and the existing AOC and the new AOP designations
The section on the Grapes and Appellation System of Bordeaux above includes the following text: 'In response to climate change, three more red varieties and four whites were approved for Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur in 2019; they are currently awaiting INAO approval.' I believe that approval has since occurred, though for four red (Arinarnoa, Castets, Marselan, and Touriga Nacional) and two white (Alvarinho and Liliorila) grape varieties.
The section on wine law above includes the following text: 'In accordance with EU regulations, only Vitis vinifera grapes may be used for production, and all grapes must be exclusively sourced from—and the resulting wine produced in—the stated geographical area.' As noted in the GuildSomm Expert Guide to Wine Law, EU regulations now permit Vitis hybrids in PDO appellations.
I'm finding the following text a bit confusing: 'The estate also intermittently produces a dry white wine, “Y” (“Ygrec"), labeled as Bordeaux or Bordeaux Supérieur.' If labeled as Bordeaux Supérieur, then it isn't dry, is it? As it would have at least 17 g/l of residual sugar? And I'm presuming that when Ygrec was labelled as a Bordeaux Supérieur, it was prior to the stylistic changes introduced in 2005--so a historical Ygrec labeled as Bordeaux Supérieur would be radically different than today's dry Ygrec labeled as Bordeaux AOP. I'm not speaking from experience, however, as I've never had Ygrec from that earlier era, so please correct me if I am mistaken.
I believe Château Pétrus should just be Petrus. (Now, whether it is Pétrus or Petrus is not something I can speak to. Reportedly Neal Martin and Jane Anson both claim the accent should be omitted, but the Maisons Marques & Domaines website is inconsistent, sometimes applying the accent and sometimes omitting it.)
Does anyone know of a map of Bordeaux that has the areas as numbers rather than colors?