The Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) system was introduced in 1963 as a means of formalizing and protecting Italian wine appellations.
The French AOC system acted as a model for Italian authorities, as they established maximum yields, approved varieties and viticultural practices, set geographical boundaries, and authorized vinification techniques, styles, and minimum (or maximum) alcohol levels for each DOC wine. The Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) category, a more prestigious and—theoretically—higher quality designation designed to represent the best of Italian wine, was also introduced in 1963, although the first DOCG was not awarded until 1980, when Brunello di Montalcino, Barolo and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano were upgraded from DOC. Most DOCGs (and many DOCs) stipulate minimum aging requirements for the wines—a notable departure from the legal requirements set by most French appellations. Over time, the system became unwieldy and too lenient; yields and geographical restrictions became too generous. Hundreds of DOC zones were established, leading to consumer confusion. Even the DOCG category, which should only include the recognizable benchmarks of Italian wine, was watered down by such unlikely promotions as Romagna Albana. As criticism of the system amplified in the 1970s and 1980s, many of Italy’s finer producers resorted to the Vino da Tavola category, releasing experimental wines produced in a manner conflicting with DOC legislation. Vino da Tavola, or table wine, cannot bear any geographical designation other than “Italy” itself, yet some of Italy’s most iconic wines—in particular the “Super Tuscans” Sassicaia and Tignanello—got their start as simple Vino da Tavola.
Thanks for the catch, Carlos. In the case of Roero, its a bit confusing, as the DOCG legislation was proposed in December 2004, but it may not have actually been approved until the following year.
Very cool little happenstance. I contacted the Consorzio of Breganze and apparently, Fausto Maculan is the VP. So, straight from the horse's mouth, I was able to ascertain that this law has been in place from the 1995 vintage onward; that in the vineyard they are allowed to have 85% Vespaiola and 15% of other grape varieties. But any wine destined to become Torcolato must be 100% Vespaiola. Cheers!
Tom,
The DOC document reads:
"La denominazione di origine controllata “Breganze Torcolato” è riservata al vino “passito” ottenuto con le uve provenienti dai vigneti iscritti all’Albo della varietà: Vespaiola al 100%"
This was last updated in 2008, but in Vino Italiano (published in 2002) David Lynch also states that Torcolato is 100% Vespaiola.
On wine-searcher.com, I found the following text:
"Torcolato was once made from a combination of Vespaiolo, Garganega and Tocai (now named Tai to avoid confusion with the famous sweet wines of Tokaj) but the modern Breganze DOC laws state that any wine bearing the title Torcolato must be 100% Vespaiolo."
If anyone is able to pinpoint if and when the law changed, please post!
Yes, Master Stamp I did check the compendium but it is at odds with some of the other information out there which is where my confusion begins
www.vendemmia.ca/.../maculantorcolato
And the original interview with Flo Fabricant from the NY Times in '93, which of course many, many changes have taken place in Italy since then and I'm not sure the fact checking was 100% accurate, but again, in trying to really get down to what the grapes are in the bottle, and when did it change? It could just be minutia but it's the kind of thing I would spend an afternoon trying to track down...
www.nytimes.com/.../torcolato-wine-italy-s-sweet-secret.html
I do defer to the Guild Somm site especially in regards to an interview in the Grey Lady from 18 years ago...but it could be the kind of thing that may have changed recently or be "official" but since he is Maculan he can do what he pleases given vintage conditions and his own whims...?
Tom, did you check the compendium entry for DOCs of Veneto? I bet you could find the answer to your question there.