Champagne and Sparkling Wine

Table of Contents
  1. From Still to Sparkling Wine in Champagne
  2. Viticulture and Climate in Champagne
  3. The Regions of Champagne
  4. The CIVC and Échelle de Crus
  5. Types of Champagne Producers
  6. The Méthode Champenoise
  7. Styles of Champagne
  8. Still wines of Champagne
  9. Other Traditional Method Sparkling Wines
  10. Other Sparkling Winemaking Methods
  11. Review Quizzes

From Still to Sparkling Wine in Champagne

The techniques of sparkling winemaking did not originate with the Benedictine monk Dom Pérignon, nor was the first purposely sparkling wine produced in the region of Champagne. Regardless, through centuries of refinement Champagne has become the world’s leading sparkling wine and the vinous embodiment of luxury and celebration.

The méthode Champenoise, a complicated process involving secondary fermentation in the bottle, is at the heart of Champagne’s character and has been adopted by sparkling winemakers worldwide. The term, like “Champagne” itself, is protected by the EU, and may only be applied to sparkling wines produced according to the prescribed method within the Champagne AOP. Wines made in the fashion of Champagne but produced elsewhere may be labeled as traditional method (méthode traditionnelle) or classic method (méthode classique). Some producers, particularly in the US, continue to label their sparkling wines as Champagne, but such wines are banned from the EU.

Dom Pérignon’s lasting contributions to modern Champagne lie in the techniques of assemblage (blending) and viticulture, despite the persistent myth that anoints him as the inventor of sparkling winemaking. As cellar master at the Abbey of Hautvillers from 1668 until his death in 1715, Pérignon struggled with the problem of natural refermentation. The irrepressibly cold winters of the region created a danger: as the weather cooled off in the autumn and the yeasts became dormant, fermentation would sometimes prematurely stop, and the wines
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  • Transversage and transfer method are similar but not the same, and the description here conflates the two. While both are transferred to pressurized tank, transversage sees remuage and disgorgement whereas transfer method does not. As I understand it, transversage is used in bottling special sizes and not transfer method. Also spelling needs a quick fix.

  • The guide above currently includes the following text: “Champagne is bottled in a range of bottle sizes. The names of large bottles, from Jeroboam forward, have Biblical connotations. Bottle sizes larger than a Jeroboam and smaller than a half bottle may be filled by transversageor [sic] by the transfer method, from a tank or through the process of decanting multiple smaller bottles.” This is tricky as ‘transfer method’ might not be a legally defined term, but typically, as Victoria O'Bryan commented above, it typically refers to a process where the process of riddling and disgorgement is omitted and instead sediment is removed by clarification/filtration in tank [see, for example, the entry for ‘sparkling winemaking’ Oxford Companion to Wine (4th Edition) or ‘transfer method’ in Chapter 9 of Wine Science: Principles & Applications (5th edition) by Ronald S Jackson (Academic Press/Elsevier 2020)]. Champagne, however, requires disgorgement - “L’élimination des sous produits issus de la fermentation en bouteilles destinée à rendre le vin mousseux est effectuée par dégorgement.” (‘Section IX. ― Transformation, élaboration, élevage, conditionnement, stockage; Subsection 2° Dispositions par type de produit’ from the 2022 cahiers des charges) Opportunity for confusion here is rife, as the OCW definition for ‘transversage’ does not correspond with the OIV definition for ‘transvasage’, and other sources such as Christie’s World Encyclopedia of Champagne and Sparkling Wine by Tom Stevenson & Essi Avellan MW (Sterling Epicure 2014) use the transfer method and transvasage as synonyms. I pity the fool (and that would be me . . .) trying to make sense of all this.

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  • The guide above currently includes the following text: “Champagne is bottled in a range of bottle sizes. The names of large bottles, from Jeroboam forward, have Biblical connotations. Bottle sizes larger than a Jeroboam and smaller than a half bottle may be filled by transversageor [sic] by the transfer method, from a tank or through the process of decanting multiple smaller bottles.” This is tricky as ‘transfer method’ might not be a legally defined term, but typically, as Victoria O'Bryan commented above, it typically refers to a process where the process of riddling and disgorgement is omitted and instead sediment is removed by clarification/filtration in tank [see, for example, the entry for ‘sparkling winemaking’ Oxford Companion to Wine (4th Edition) or ‘transfer method’ in Chapter 9 of Wine Science: Principles & Applications (5th edition) by Ronald S Jackson (Academic Press/Elsevier 2020)]. Champagne, however, requires disgorgement - “L’élimination des sous produits issus de la fermentation en bouteilles destinée à rendre le vin mousseux est effectuée par dégorgement.” (‘Section IX. ― Transformation, élaboration, élevage, conditionnement, stockage; Subsection 2° Dispositions par type de produit’ from the 2022 cahiers des charges) Opportunity for confusion here is rife, as the OCW definition for ‘transversage’ does not correspond with the OIV definition for ‘transvasage’, and other sources such as Christie’s World Encyclopedia of Champagne and Sparkling Wine by Tom Stevenson & Essi Avellan MW (Sterling Epicure 2014) use the transfer method and transvasage as synonyms. I pity the fool (and that would be me . . .) trying to make sense of all this.

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