Understanding wine in China, especially regarding grape varieties, requires knowledge of two distinct historical contexts. First, China, with its indigenous grape species, can be considered an ancient wine country. Archaeological findings at a Neolithic site in Jiahu revealed grape seeds dating back to 7000 BCE, indicating ancient winemaking practices.
Across the country, there is a diversity of local grape varieties. More than half of the world’s grape genus varieties are found in China, mostly in the wild, including in mountain and valley areas. Viticulture was historically significant in much of China, yet there was little emphasis on grape domestication, likely because other crops, such as rice, dominated.
Vitis amurensis, also known as the mountain grape, is grown in northeastern China and is valued for its cold resistance. This makes it a valuable species for breeding cold-resistant varieties. Because of its high acidity and bitterness, however, it is unsuitable for dry wines. Beibinghong is a successful hybrid between Vitis amurensis and Vitis vinifera, producing a more balanced wine without excessive exotic aromas. Notably, Beibinghong is cold-resistant and does not require labor-intensive overwinter vine burial.
Vitis davidii, known as the spine grape because of its spiny young shoots, is grown in subtropical areas of the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau and the Yangtze River basin. This species has excellent resistance to high temperatures, humidity, and fungal diseases, making it valuable for developing varieties suitable for subtropical conditions. But it lacks sugar and acid, making it generally unsuitable for wine production.
Vitis quinquangularis is grown south of the Yellow River in regions with ample sunshine and high rainfall. Its viticultural characteristics resemble those of Vitis davidii,