Where the Ocean Meets the Sea: Wines of Fronton, Gaillac, Marcillac, and Cahors

In my first installment on the wines of Southwest France I covered wines from the Pyrénées, including Jurançon, Madiran and Irouleguy. In this second installment, we are moving from the western edge of the Southwest to its eastern border. Here the wines are influenced by the intersection of two bodies of water: the Atlantic Ocean to the west and the Mediterranean Sea to the south.

The Atlantic climate is damp, with plenty of rain throughout the year. Spring always carries the risk of mildew and rot, while relatively late picking dates and fogs encourage noble rot in autumn. Bordeaux is a perfect example of a region that has an Atlantic climate. The Mediterranean climate (think Provence and the Languedoc-Roussillon) is dryer and experiences warm winds that originate in North Africa, cross the sea, and head north. On the continent, these winds help to provide conditions for earlier ripening.

The wines from the regions profiled in this article are the fruitiest and most forwardly aromatic of the Southwest. That is not to say that they are light and easy to drink. (They are, after all, from the area whose cuisine revolves around duck and pork!) But unlike Madiran—which is challenging to consume on its own—many of these wines can be served by the glass and enjoyed with or without food.

Fronton AOP

Fronton is the name of a town located in the Tarn-et-Garonne département (31), a twenty-minute drive north of Toulouse and a half-hour south of Montauban. Vineyards in the region were initially planted around the time of the first millennium, when the Crusades arrived in Southern France and the Knights of Saint Jean de Jerusalem settled in the area and built churches and abbeys. (The Knights had been dislodged from Jerusalem and settled briefly in Cyprus before moving onto the European continent, brining vine stock with them.) Many centuries later the area held two winegrowing zones, surrounding the towns of Villaudric (which achieved VDQS status in 1945) and Fronton, which became a VDQS in 1947. In the 1960s and 1970s cooperatives in both zones differentiated themselves with their bottles: Villaudric used a Burgundy-shaped bottle and Fronton used the Bordeaux bottle. In 1975, the two regions joined together to achieve appellation status as Côtes du Frontonnais AOC. Its name was abbreviated to Fronton in 2008.

The Fronton region is not what one would necessarily call pretty. Many vineyards lie alongside fields of sunflowers and barley, but scores of suburban houses, built over the last 30 years, are also scattered about the mostly flat and arid terrain. A road with passing cars and trucks is rarely out of sight, and highways can often be seen in the distance. Some vineyards can be found next to shopping centers or abandoned fields. Unlike many wine regions in France, there is not much to write home about regarding the Fronton landscape. Wineries are normally found next to (or attached to) their owners’ houses. Fermentation vessels are typically made of fiberglass or cement, or occasionally stainless steel. If barrels are to be found, they are usually not new. The wines of Fronton are value-priced, usually retailing for between $12 and $18 per bottle.

Stats: Fronton has about 1,600 hectares (3,950 acres) of vineyards, making it slightly larger than Madiran. Annual production averages 70,000 hectoliters (just under 9 million bottles of wine). Fronton is the closest wine appellation to France’s fourth-largest city, Toulouse, but its sales are still dwarfed by those of both Bordeaux and the Languedoc.

The Soil: Fronton has three distinctive soil types that rise in terraces from the left bank of the Tarn river, most of which are rich in clay with varying amounts of iron, flint, quartz, and limestone pieces. The first terrace, not far from the river, is composed of boulbènes: chunks of limestone and crushed quartz ranging in size from marbles to golf balls, often surrounded by sandy clay. These stones originated in the Massif Central mountain range in the middle of France and were carried to the region by the Tarn millions of years ago. Rougets, found on the second terrace to the south, are soils composed of clay and silt and are, because of their higher iron content, redder in color. Gravel is commonly found on the third terrace in the western part of the appellation, which is higher in elevation. Beneath the gravel are larger chunks of limestone that sit atop deep clay. This type of soil helps produce grapes with more concentration and structure.

boulbènes

The Grapes: Only red grapes are allowed in the Fronton appellation. Over half of the Fronton vineyards are planted with Négrette, a descendant of a grape from Cyprus called Mavro (meaning “black” in Cypriot) that was brought by the Knights of Saint Jean of Jerusalem to the continent centuries ago. More recent studies place Négrette within the Cot family of grapes, which also includes Tannat and Malbec. Alternatively, other research suggests that Négrette was brought to the region from Spain during the Middle Ages, first arriving in Gaillac before moving west to Fronton. Négrette is still a permitted (yet rarely found) variety in Gaillac, but its undisputed home now is in Fronton. Négrette, the “little black grape,” has relatively low acid but is deeply colored and loaded with fruit flavors that include blackcurrant, blackberry, raspberry, licorice, pepper, game and an effusive floral note that suggests violet and peony. Many tasters have found similarities between certain aromas of Négrette and those of Syrah from the Northern Rhone.

Négrette can be found in North America, where it goes under the name Pinot Saint George. Only a handful of wineries today make wine from the grape in California, but it was once widely planted and frequently used in jug wines several decades ago. The DeRose Winery in Hollister considers it to be one of their specialties and still releases Pinot Saint George as a varietal wine.

Négrette must be planted in at least 50% of a producer’s vineyards and must make up at least 40% of the wine; however, about a dozen producers also make cuvées with 100% Négrette. Other varieties permitted in the appellation include Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and—to a much smaller extent—Gamay, Malbec, Cinsault, Fer Servadou and Merille. Unlike red wines from the Pyrénées, wines from Fronton are softer, fruitier and easier to consume in a wider variety of situations due to their lower acid and tannin structures.

Just under a third of the region’s production is rosé; Fronton is one of the few appellations in the Southwest that takes its pink production seriously! These rosés are normally deeply colored and medium- to full-bodied, with earthy aromas and flavors that combine red cherry and plum.

What to eat while drinking Fronton: A classic local pairing with Négrette is grilled Toulouse sausage, but any thick pork sausage works. Couple this with some cannellini beans and you have a fine meal on your hands. Another common pairing is cassoulet, a delicious stew made with pieces of duck, pork and beans that is slow-cooked at low heat until a crust forms on top. A final suggestion: spicy North African couscous stew, with lamb and Merguez sausages, boiled vegetables and semolina. In short, Fronton wines work well with rustic, hearty plates with rich flavors.

Aging Fronton: As Négrette is a grape with relatively low acid, pure Négrette wines will age gracefully over the course of six or seven years. Fronton wines made with the addition of Cabernet Sauvignon or Syrah will have a longer lifespan, perhaps lasting ten years before going into decline. The more Cabernet in the blend, the more they begin to resemble Bordeaux wines. Understandably, additional Syrah brings the Northern Rhône to mind.

Recommended producers in Fronton
Domaine Le Roc: After studying winemaking in Toulouse, Frédéric “Fredo” Ribes returned to join his brother Jean-Luc in running the family domaine. Since the early ‘90s, Fredo has been viewed as the appellation’s most serious winemaker and a qualitative counterpoint to the region’s largest independent producer, Bellevue la Fôret. Ribes makes a concentrated, pure Négrette called “Folle Noire d’Ambat,” an excellent rosé, and and a long-term cellaring candidate composed of 50% Négrette and 50% Syrah called “Don Quichote” (Don Quixote).
-Imported by Charles Neal Selections and Langdon-Shiverick Imports

La Colombière: A 17-hectare domaine located on the Villaudric side of the appellation, La Colombière is run by husband and wife Philippe and Diane Cauvin. Their property has clay soils with plenty of pebbles, and they are now farming their vineyards biodynamically. “Vinum,” made with 100% Négrette grown on sand and clay soils, sees a short fermentation period in order to preserve its fresh fruit flavors and notes of spice. The wine gives lots of pleasure on hot days. Another warm weather favorite is the “Vin Gris” rosé—the wine was once nearly too pale to achieve appellation status but is now firmly in line with the hue of popular Provencal pink wines.
-Vin de Froggy Imports

Château Bouissel: Domaine Bouissel is located on the third terrace, at about 140 meters elevation. Their vineyards have more limestone than many in the appellation, lending their wines a richer, rounder mouth feel. “Le Négrette de Bouissel” has blackberry and cassis fruit oozing from its silky texture. Also of note is a tasty IGP Comté Tolosane called “Peiruda,” a white made with a highly original blend: one-third Petit Manseng, one-third Viognier and one-third Colombard. It shows plenty of pineapple and apricot flavors buttressed by bright acidity.
–Imported by the Wine Company (St. Paul, MN)

Château Plaisance: Marc Penavayre expanded his father’s property to 30 hectares after returning home in 1991. In 2000 he began working his vineyards sustainably and converted to organic viticulture in 2012. The vineyards are located on the second and third terraces of Fronton on rougets and stony soils. Today he works with only indigenous yeasts, bottling his wines without filtration. His “Grain de Folie” is a blend of Négrette and Gamay and is a simple, fruity and highly enjoyable quaffer that is ideal with a light chill. More serious is his “Tradition,” made with Négrette, Syrah and a touch of Cabernet Franc. His “Alabets,” made with pure Négrette and bursting with black fruits and violets, finishes with fine, dusty tannins.
–Imported by VOS Selections

Gaillac AOP

Gaillac is in the Tarn département (81); the town lies east of Fronton and about forty-five minutes northeast of Toulouse. Archaeological discoveries show that vines have been cultivated in the area since the first century—the area was then part of a Roman province, Narbonnensis, linking Provence and Spain. Like most of Europe, grapes were grown primarily under the watchful eye of the church, and viticulture was interrupted by numerous invasions and wars. In the 19th century, the importation of wines from outside the region was prohibited, helping to boost local production. Sparkling wines from Gaillac developed a reputation. Vignerons began fermentation in the fall, bottled their wines during cold winter months after fermentation naturally stalled, and watched fermentation continue in the bottle once the weather began to warm. This process became known as the méthode Gaillacoise.

Before the arrival of phylloxera most still wine from Gaillac was red, but increasing competition from the Languedoc following post-phylloxera replanting forced the Gaillacois to concentrate on white wine production. Sweet whites came into vogue in the 1930s and Gaillac, an area whose climate provided favorable conditions for such wines, became so renowned that it achieved appellation status for white wines in 1938. Unfortunately, red grapes became secondary and suffered in quality, with rustic varieties like Jurançon Noir and Portugais Bleu (Blauer Portugieser) capable of little more than producing high-acid table wines.

With the rise of co-ops in the 1960s and 1970s, more international varieties were introduced to the region, including Syrah, Gamay, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon. These better-known varieties created a larger market for Gaillac reds (resulting in the addition of red wines to the region’s AOC in 1970), while obviously removing some of the region’s typicity. A few new wines were also added to the appellation’s arsenal, including bubbly made by the méthode Champenoise and primeur wines made with Gamay.

Today, Gaillac is the most wide-ranging appellation in the Southwest with over a dozen permitted varieties and many different types and colors of wine. “Our force is that we have many different wines to offer people,” claims Bernard Plageoles of the Domaine des Très Cantous. “If you go to a tasting and there are other producers from Cahors, Fronton or Madiran, most are standing behind their tables with a few red wines and, perhaps, a rosé. In Gaillac, all the producers have tables full of different kinds of wines to offer customers.” Indeed, Gaillac makes red wine, white wine, rosé, nouveau wine, pétillant wine, sparkling wine, sweet wine, demi-sec wine and semi-oxidized wine—it is one of the most diverse appellations in France. Permitted red varieties include Duras, Braucol (Fer Servadou), Mauzac Noir, Prunelard, Gamay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Syrah. White varieties include Sauvignon Blanc, Muscadelle, Len de l’El, Ondenc, and four different types of Mauzac.

The Stats: With over 4,200 hectares under vine, Gaillac is the second largest appellation in Southwest France behind Bergerac. The production is between 110-150,000 hectoliters of red wine (64%), 45-60,000 hectoliters of white wine (26%), and 20,000 hectoliters of rosé (10%). The area’s 100 independent wine producers and three cooperative cellars produce about 20 million bottles of wine annually. Most Gaillac wine is best when consumed in its first five years of life, when the fruit, spice and tannin are most in harmony.

White Grapes of Gaillac
Mauzac Blanc: Another ancient variety used for still wines but often found in sparkling Gaillac made by the méthode Gaillacoise, Mauzac has good acidity and usually gives wines that have a distinctive apple skin flavor. It is more regularly encountered in Limoux (part of the Languedoc), where it must make up 90% of the blend in Blanquette de Limoux.

Len de l’El: A grape also known by its French (rather than Occitan) name Loin de l’Oeil, its name means "far from the eye"—supposedly in reference to the length of the stems between the eye (bud) and the grape. This grape can be used for both dry and sweet wines, and it usually has more acidity than Mauzac. Its aromas contain floral notes accompanied by lemon-drop and orange.

Ondenc: An old southwestern variety first mentioned in the late 18th century, Ondenc has nearly disappeared because of its tendency to ripen early and its susceptibility to various maladies. In 1958, 1,589 hectares were planted in France—there are fewer than 20 today. It produces both dry and sweet wines, usually with low acid and honeyed notes that often evoke quince.

Muscadelle: While often used in a supporting capacity in the dry wines of Entre-Deux-Mers, Muscadelle also has a home in Gaillac, where it is usually used for sweet wines that have aromas of fig, honey, apricot and quince. Small percentages of this wine can also be found in Sauternes and Monbazillac.

Red Grapes of Gaillac
Braucol: This grape is also found in Marcillac, where it goes under the name Mansois. In Madiran it is Pinenc de Pinet. In wine literature, it goes under the name Fer Servadou. Braucol, as it is known in Gaillac, has solid rootstock and can be grown on trellises or in gobelet; it gives notes of black fruit, cassis, licorice and spice. Braucol reaches higher alcohol in Gaillac (because of the Mediterranean influence) than in Marcillac.

Duras: A grape found almost exclusively in Gaillac, its name is derived from its solid or dur rootstock. It is part of the Pinot family and produces wines of deep color with good alcohol levels, moderate structure and notes of dark fruit and pepper.

Prunelard: Sometimes spelled Prunelart, this grape’s name comes from local patois for plum, because of the grape’s shape and color. DNA studies have shown that Prunelard is one of the parents of Malbec. Its deeply colored wines emit flavors of Mirabelle plum, cherry, gunflint, spice, stone and herbs.

Mauzac Noir: This red grape is somewhat difficult to find in the region but produces spicy wines that are light in color, body and alcohol.

The Soil: Historically, the Romans shipped goods along the Tarn River, which flowed into the Garonne and eventually led to Bordeaux, a major shipping point. Today, Gaillac still uses the Tarn to divide its three terroirs. In the southern part of the appellation (referred to as la rive gauche, the left bank), soils are comprised of gravel, small stones and clay—a base conducive to red wine production. On la rive doite (right bank) of the river, clay and limestone soils permit white wines to have equal importance. The northern part of the appellation is at higher altitude and the soils also contain much more limestone. It is truly an area where the adage “white soils make white wines” rings true. This varied terroir and multitude of permitted grapes have caused some to complain that Gaillac is too diverse to categorize. Bernard Plageoles disagrees: “Twenty years ago, some journalists thought that Gaillac was too diverse to have an identity and many other writers followed suit. But we basically have three soil types in the appellation and six or seven varieties that everyone uses. It’s no more complex here than in the Loire Valley or Bordeaux.”

What to eat while drinking Gaillac: With all the wines that are produced in Gaillac, one can always find a wine for any plate they decide to consume. The region itself lies at the crossroads of several regions and is influenced by their cuisines: Gascony with its duck and pork, the Massif Central with its charcuterie and cheese, and the Languedoc with its garlic and spices. Gaillac whites might be used as a replacement for Arneis or Orvieto, lighter reds made with Mauzac or Braucol could be substituted for mineral-driven Gamay from around France, while Duras, Prunelard or more serious blends of several grapes would make an excellent accompaniment to grilled meats or hearty vegetarian dishes. The sparkling wines often have yeasty, apple-cider notes that would be ideal with mushroom canapés.

Recommended producers in Gaillac
Domaine des Causse Marines: This small domaine is located in the northernmost section of Gaillac above the town of Vieux, along a gentle limestone-rich slope. Patrice Lescarret acquired eight hectares of vines in 1993 and was soon joined by his now-partner Virginie Maignien, a Jura native who had met Patrice at school in Beaune and worked at Domaine Jean Thévenet in Beaujolais. Together the couple began farming their vines organically, then biodynamically. Their 55,000-bottle annual production comes from a total of 13 different grapes, most of which are planted on their original rootstock. Causse Marines is in the natural wine camp, using only indigenous yeasts, rejecting the use of enhancers, and incorporating low levels of sulfur at bottling time. The white “Les Greilles,” a blend of Mauzac, Ondenc, Muscadelle, Semillon and Chenin Blanc, is aged in fiberglass and has a lovely texture with forward fruit and well-integrated acidity. “Dencon,” made with Ondenc and 10% Petit Manseng, is aged in older oak, and shows notes of exotic citrus fruit and a touch of honey, vanilla and anise. Reds like “Peyrouzelles,” made with a blend of Duras, Braucol and Syrah and aged in tank, have great forward fruit kissed by spice, a sense of purity, and high drinkability. Their sparkling “Raides Bulles,” made by the méthode Gaillacoise, incorporates a little Mauzac along with Syrah, Duras, Braucol and Jurançon Noir. It has gentle bubbles that help carry the fruit’s tender sweetness. The couple also has some vines in Marcillac that they have started to cultivate.
-Imported by Louis/Dressner

Virgine Maignien

Domaine des Très Cantous: Robert Plageoles once headed the growers’ association that advised people to plant international varieties. Quickly disillusioned, he abandoned ship and instead focused on the indigenous varieties of the region, becoming so obsessed with them that he wrote a landmark book on the subject. Tres Cantous (“three chimneys” in the local dialect) is now run by his son Bernard and grandsons Romain and Florent. The domaine covers 20 hectares, split between two properties in neighboring communes in the northern part of the appellation, where a thin layer of clay sits atop a solid core of limestone. Duras, Prunelard, Mauzac Noir, Syrah, Len de l’El, Muscadelle, Mauzac Roux, Mauzac Vert, Ondenc and Verdanel are always vinified on their own—no blending. The red wines see no oak. Having worked organically for 20 years, this domaine stands as a reference point for most in the region. Especially strong are their sweet wines that are always rich in texture and ooze notes of citrus and stone fruits. The domaine’s “Vin d’Autan,” made with 100% Ondenc cropped at half a ton an acre, has long been on the lists of many three star restaurants in France. A quarter of the family’s production comes from their “Mauzac Nature”—made by the méthode Gaillacoise—but they also produce an excellent “Vin de Voile”: pure Mauzac raised for seven years under a yeast film in 600-liter barrels. It gives many Vin Jaune wines a run for their money.
-Imported by Charles Neal Selections and Jenny and Francois Selections

Domaine Rotier: Domaine Rotier is located in the Gaillac’s rive gauche, south of the Tarn River. Here the soil is composed of gravel pieces and alluvial sediment that are particularly suited to red grapes. Understandably Alain Rotier makes a number of excellent organic reds that combine Braucol, Duras and/or Syrah. “Esquisse” is made with a third of each grape and aged solely in tank with a low dose of sulfur. Checking in at 12% alcohol, its red and black berry fruit along with a hefty dollop of spice makes it an excellent hot weather quaffer. “L’Ame,” made with 80% Duras and 20% Braucol, has much more volume and stains the palate with cassis, mint and coconut flavors, elements that make it a great partner with rich meat dishes. The “Rennaisance” blanc is made with 100% Len de l’El, harvested with noble rot and finishing at about 230 grams of residual sugar. Chock full of quince, fig and apricot notes, yet retaining impressive acid for its weight, this sweet wine also finishes with admirable length.
–Imported by Oz Wines, Roanoke Valley Wine Company, Tru Wines

Domaine de la Ramaye: Michel Issaly, president of the Association of Independent Winegrowers in France (Vignerons Independents), has a small six-hectares domaine about a five-minute drive west of Gaillac in Sainte Cécile d'Avès. Most of this eccentric producer’s wines are red, and only about 20,000 bottles are produced a year. A great experimenter, he investigates various trellising systems (growing grapes vertically on stakes rather than horizontally on wires) and the planting of vines at random rather than in rows to see if less standardization allows more inspiring personality. He works his chalk and clay-based vines organically, keeps yields low, and harvests entirely by hand. His wines are aged in fiberglass and cement tanks and fermentations are conducted with indigenous yeasts. He bottles with minimal sulfur levels. Highlights here include a number of sweet wines made with Mauzac and Len de l’El (especially “Le Sous-Bois de Rayssac” and “Quintessence Grains par Grains”) and a red made with equal parts Prunelart and Braucol called “Le Grand Tertre,” which has deeply concentrated red fruits that hint at cherry and plum with a nice touch of spice on the finish.
-No known American importer

Marcillac AOP

Marcillac is the name of a town in the Aveyron département (12) from which the appellation takes its name. It lies due east of Cahors, equidistant from Bordeaux and Châteauneuf-du-Pape. It is not a common destination for tourists—it is nearly an hour and a half northeast of Gaillac and about two and a half hours from Montpellier. While Aveyron is the fifth-largest département in France, it is also one of the least visited; for most people, it is simply too far off the grid. Much of the land is covered by fenced-off acreage on which sheep graze; their milk will be used for Roquefort cheese, Aveyron’s most famous export. Other famous products from Aveyron are Laguiole knives and cutlery. Michel Bras has an amazing three-star Michelin restaurant just over an hour northeast of Marcillac, in Laguiole itself.

About ten kilometers west of the département’s capital Rodez, you make a turn off the route nationale and head north. A few kilometers later, the road begins to descend and an amazing red rock canyon unfolds before you. As you stare across the canyon at the slopes, you gradually realize that much of it is etched with empty terraces, remnants of a much more populated area a century ago.

Records indicate that wine has been produced in the region since the 9th century, likely brought by monks from Burgundy to the abbey at Conques, one of the towns along the Saint-Jacques-de-Compostelle route. During the early 19th century, many of the region’s vineyards were owned by the upper class in nearby Rodez, who shared their harvests with their workers. Production in Marcillac soared during the later 19th century, when coal-mining became an important industry in nearby towns. But phylloxera ended up destroying the vineyards. Anxious to supply the thirsty mine and steel workers, vines were afterward grafted and planted in areas that produced plenty of grapes and wine, albeit of mediocre quality.

The mid-20th century saw mine closures and relocation of industries, heavy losses during the Second World War, and a ruinous frost in 1956—events that caused the population and wine production to dwindle. Many locals moved north to Paris where, it is said, more café owners have roots in the Aveyron than in the capital itself. Vineyards were abandoned or ripped up: the total dropped from over 870 hectares of vines in 1956 to a mere 23 hectares in the early 1960s. In the mid-1960s, the remaining producers joined forces and formed a cooperative, whose success was aided as Marcillac achieved VDQS status in 1965. In 1990, it was awarded appellation status.

The Stats: With 210 hectares of vines today, Marcillac is about the size of Volnay. Only red and rosé wines are allowed. Annual production averages 8,000 hectoliters per year or 1,000,000 bottles—also similar to Volnay. Maximum yield is 50 hl/ha. Manual harvesting of grapes is mandatory. Most vines are planted between 300 and 400 meters (to avoid the cool air and frosts of the valley) and face south for maximum sun exposure. The climate of the region is influenced by the Atlantic (bringing a good amount of rain in the spring) and the Mediterranean (which brings warm winds during the late summer months). The nearby Massif Central mountain range also plays a role, creating cold winters and adding a risk of early spring frosts.

The Soil: Underneath the vines lies intensely red soil, rich in color like Georgia clay, which helps imbue Marcillac with an earthy intensity. This iron-rich limestone is locally called rougiers and it will permanently stain your trousers. The iron also lends a blood-like note to vine’s grapes, adding to Marcillac’s complexity and intrigue.

The Grapes: In addition to its special soil, Marcillac’s originality comes from its primary grape, known locally as Mansois, in Gaillac as Braucol, in Madiran as Pinenc—and universally as Fer Servadou. It is part of the Cabernet family, and its name (Fer, meaning “iron”) refers to its sturdy rootstock. The grape gives wines that have deep purple color, with notes of red berries (raspberry, cranberry and strawberry), cherry, a spicy complexity that recalls paprika and black pepper and, at times, a green vegetal note, akin to Cabernet Franc. Underlying it all is an earthy intensity that could be referred to as bloody. With bottle age (5 or 6 years), its beautiful color remains but the red fruit evolves into cassis while retaining its spice. Truly a wine worth putting away for a half decade, it will provide gustatory dividends with minimal financial investment. Legally, Marcillac vineyards must contain at least 90% Mansois. Rarely used complementary grapes include Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Presently the cooperative produces 55% of the wine, with 45% divided between about a dozen independent producers.

What to eat while drinking Marcillac: Marcillac wines go well with charcuterie, particularly saucisson and pork or rabbit rillettes. But it also pairs well with pork tenderloin, veal chops and grilled beef. A typical regional dish, Aligot Aveyronnais, is a potato puree with cream into which grated tomme cheese is stirred until the entire mixture stretches and is slapped down onto plates—a peasant’s version of raclette, if you like. Often served with sausages, this is a highly enjoyable winter dish.

Recommended producers in Marcillac
Domaine du Cros: With 24 hectares under vines, Philippe Teulier is the best known producer in Marcillac with more export sales than most of the other independent producers put together. “Lo Sang del Païs” is an excellent entry-level red aged in stainless-steel tanks, with plenty of cassis and black fruits along with spice and licorice. Well-integrated tannin makes this an excellent by-the-glass choice. His “Vieilles Vignes” cuvée is made with vines over 50 years old planted near the top of the slopes. This wine sees a long, 35-day maceration that includes pigeage. It is then aged in old foudres for nearly two years before being bottled. On a cold winter night at the domaine a couple of years ago, I had the fantastic opportunity to taste through nearly 20 different vintages of this wine, most of which were still alive and whose evolutionary pattern showed consistent aromas of cassis, musk, undergrowth, mint and licorice.
-Imported by Wine Traditions Ltd.

Domaine Matha: Jean-Luc Matha is certainly the producer with the most personality in Marcillac. While his mother insisted he study for the priesthood, Matha instead became a clown before returning home several years later to work with his dad in the family vineyard. Plots are scattered around the town of Bruejouls; some are on extremely steep slopes whose only access by four-wheel-drive vehicle is not for the faint-hearted. His vines are massale selections rather than reproductions of single clones, and he ferments in cement and fiberglass tanks with natural yeasts. His cuvée “Lairis” has plenty of red fruit and spices that include paprika and pepper. “Peirafi,” sourced from stonier soils and aged for two years in foudre, is built for the long haul, still showing life ten to fifteen years after being bottled. Matha treats his vintages as if they were his children, recognizing the differences between them and appreciating them all for different reasons. Speaking of children, his son Hugo is making a name for himself as a designer in Paris.
-Imported by Charles Neal Selections

Domaine des Costes Rouges: This small, six-hectare domaine is run by husband and wife Eric and Claudine Vinas, who took over management from her father in 1998. Certified organic since 2009 and proponents of only indigenous yeasts, the couple vinifies their wines in open-topped tanks before aging them in underground cement vessels. Their entry-level wine “Tandem” shows ripe cassis, a touch of herbs and a juicy, peppery finish. “Clos de la Ferrière” comes from a 50-year-old plot with limestone close to the surface. This wine has more structure and benefits from several years aging, after which it is most pleasant with grilled leg of lamb.
-Imported by Charles Neal Selections

Domaine Laurens: This father-son team makes both rosé and a few red wines from their large 21-hectare property. A one-time president of the Cave Cooperative and president of the Marcillac Grower’s Association, Michel Laurens is a grand defender of this small appellation. Working their vineyards sustainably, they make a light Marcillac rouge whose fruit and gentle spice would work well with a light chill. Their “Cuvée de Flars,” aged in oak barrels, has more concentration but less immediate appeal. Their rosés, made by saignée, are deliciously fruity with added spicy complexity.
-No known American importer

Domaine du Mioula: A more recent domaine in Marcillac purchased by businessman Bernard Angles in the mid-1990s, Mioula’s initial wine was produced in 2003. The majority of the 5.5 hectares of vines are massale selections, and some date before phylloxera. Grapes are harvested by hand, fermented in steel and fiberglass tanks, and aged in oak barrels. Production is largely overseen by Patrice Lescaret of Causse Marines in Gaillac. Although these wines have plenty of berry flavors, the oak dominates many of the releases—something that unfortunately cut into much of the wine’s potential pleasure.
-No known American importer

Cahors AOP

While Marcillac, Fronton and Gaillac specialize in eclectic grapes that are rarely seen outside the region, Cahors focuses on Malbec, a grape that has become well known to mainstream consumers. Twenty-five years ago, however, very few Argentinian wines were exported and Malbec was viewed as either a regional southwest grape or one of the permitted varieties in Bordeaux whose importance had declined (much like Petit Verdot) to the point that it was difficult to find even in the Gironde amidst the ocean of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc.

Cahors is a large town in the Lot département (46). Its white stone buildings stand above the Lot River, which twists its way through the Quercy, a region that combines an austere, stony landscape with wooded areas famous for the growth of black truffles. Like other parts of the Southwest, Cahors also has a strong culinary heritage: duck and game are common, and lamb from Quercy has its own appellation. The local cheese, Rocamadour, is made from goats’ milk.

Unlike Fronton, Gaillac or Marcillac, Cahors is more connected to Bordeaux; châteaux dot the landscape and hint at the region’s important past. Historically, Cahors shipped a large part of its production westward along the river; the Lot connects to the Garonne and leads to Bordeaux. In the 14th century, half the wine shipped out of Bordeaux originated in the Quercy. Russia was a big customer of Cahors—the wines become a favorite of the Orthodox Church and later Tsars. In the 18th century, Bordeaux claret was painfully pale, and the addition of Malbec from Cahors helped concentrate its color, flavor, and ability to age. By the end of the 19th century, wine shipments from the Quercy to Bordeaux drastically declined. While some wine from Cahors was considered black—dark, rough, tannic, and best suited for blending—others were boiled or baked to remove water, fermented and then muted with grape distillate so that they could later be reduced to whatever alcohol level was desired. For the most part, the lofty reputation Cahors once experienced became a memory. As elsewhere in France, phylloxera reared its ugly head here in the late 1800s. But when producers grafted their vines to American rootstock (as was the norm in the country), the vines failed—Malbec was too vigorous for the graft, something that also accentuated its weakness to coulure. The solution was to plant low-quality varieties from other parts of the world; they flourished, but sadly produced non-descript wines.

Cahors was awarded VDQS status in 1951. After the devastating frost of 1956 destroyed countless vineyards, new clones replaced mediocre varieties. It became an AOC in 1971. Producers moved from polyculture to monoculture. Demand at supermarkets around France followed and Cahors became once again significant in the marketplace. The 1980s-1990s saw investment in the region from outside sources, including the former head of Cartier Jewelers, Alain Dominique Perrin, who purchased and restored Château Lagrézette (and used Michel Rolland’s team as enologists). Philippe Lejeune, a tech millionaire, purchased the Château de Chambert and used Stéphane Derenoncourt’s team to consult.

Of course, one cannot overlook the screaming success of Malbec in Argentina when speaking about Cahors today. Most people have never heard of Tannat, Négrette or Braucol, but most stores now have Malbec sections and many restaurants consistently have a Malbec by the glass. Those in Cahors have done their most to capitalize on the grape’s recognition, even coining slogans like “The French Malbec”—something that has undeniably increased sales. This association with Argentina has easily made Cahors the most recognizable wine appellation in Southwest France today. In fact, 30% of Cahors exports go to the United States; we are their second-largest export market behind Canada.

The Stats: Cahors is a red wine-only appellation. 4,000 hectares of red grapes are planted in Cahors, with a maximum yield of 50 hectoliters/hectare. 30 million bottles are produced by 240 independent growers who either sell directly or to négociants (80% of the production) and 20% who are members of local cooperatives. Cahors is responsible for 10% of the world’s production of Malbec.

The Climate: Cahors lies 130 miles from both the Atlantic coast (to the west) and the Mediterranean coast (to the southeast). Summer days are warm and sunny in Cahors and rainfall is significantly lower than in Bordeaux (700 mm annually as opposed to 950 mm in Bordeaux). The climate makes it easier for winemakers to achieve full phenolic ripeness in their grapes but limits the risks of humidity-related vineyard problems.

The Grapes: Legally, a wine from Cahors must contain 70% Malbec, locally known as Cot (or Auxerrois, historically). A member of the Cotoides family of grapes (along with Prunelard, Tannat and Negrette), Malbec is low yielding and relatively low in acid, but its thick skin insures good color and a goodly amount of tannin. The vigorous vine is prone to coulure. Common flavors of young Malbec include blackberry, raspberry, licorice and anise. With some bottle age additional notes of plums, cherry, herbs and wet leaves will emerge. Other permitted varieties in Cahors include Merlot and Tannat. Merlot has less tannin than Malbec and more forward fruit, and it is frequently used to soften entry-level wines so that they are accessible when young. Tannat, the grape of Madiran, is deeper in color and higher in acidity and tannin than Malbec, two factors that limit its use to perhaps 10% of a blend—usually it is saved for wines that are meant to be cellared for several years.

The Soil: Nine different terroirs are divided into four general areas or terraces in Cahors. Vineyards next to the river, perhaps the least esteemed, comprise the first terrace and are composed of alluvial soils that tend to produce simple, fruity wines. Mid-slope vines along the second terrace contain older pieces of limestone within the clay, helping to produce wines with more body. The third terrace, which lies along steeper slopes, contains limestone gravel that covers the clay entirely. Vines from here can undergo hydric stress, which increases the sugar content while retaining acid structure and creates wines with a bit more elegance. The fourth growing area is the plateau, on the flatter ground some 300 meters above the river. While most plots combine and limestone with clay, a few also contain iron-rich soils. The climate is drier on the plateau and a bit cooler, enabling slower ripening and the potential for later harvests than on the other terraces.

Aging Cahors: Cahors, like Madiran, has always been considered and excellent choice for cellaring. Because of Malbec’s thick skin and subsequent tannin, the wine will keep and evolve favorably over the course of 20 years. At Clos de Gamot, former owner Jean Jouffreau hosted a dinner for journalists and friends a couple of decades ago in which he opened bottles of Cahors dating back to the 1920s. Aged in foudre rather than barrel, more than three quarters of the older bottles stood the test of time and retained complex fruit and good acidic balance. Time will tell the if many of the modern cuvées—with their greater extraction, higher alcohol and new oak aging—will be capable of evolving like their more humble predecessors.

Foudre at Clos de Gamot

What to eat while drinking Cahors: Cahors tends to have more finesse than some of the other wines from the Southwest, and the wine pairs more easily with a larger variety of plates. As Cahors can come across like Bordeaux with a bit more grit, the wine can usually be substituted for Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc or Merlot at the table. Leg of lamb, lamb T-bones, hearty dishes that include mushrooms and garlic—all make classic pairings. Thick cuts of beef cooked over a fire are a great match for Cahors. Of course, duck and thick sausages cannot be overlooked, especially when combined with beans in a rich cassoulet.

Differences between Malbec from Argentina and Malbec from Cahors: While the grape is the same, Malbec from Argentina and that from Cahors just don’t taste the same. Soils play a large role: in Mendoza, most soils are alluvial, with a mixture of sand and clay. In Cahors, the soil is more limestone-based and permits the grapes to have more structure. Climate also plays a role in Mendoza, where higher temperatures and customary vine irrigation help to create riper, juicier grapes. In Cahors the grapes tend to be a bit smaller, and they contain more tannin. In comparison with Cahors, the majority of Argentinian Malbec is fruit-forward, less tannic, more alcoholic and shorter on the finish. Cahors, on the other hand, tends to have darker fruit, more grape tannin, less alcohol and a longer finish.

Recommended Producers
Château du Cèdre: Like Le Roc in Gaillac, Pascal and Jean-Marc Verhaeghe rose to prominence in the mid-1990s with highly extracted, heavily oaked blends in the style popularized by other Southwestern producers like Alain Brumont in Madiran. Early pioneers of organic farming in the region and employers of a combination of Bordeaux and Burgundy technology, the brothers now age their wines in larger barrels from Burgundy with lower toast levels, making the wines a little more soave than before. The classic “Château du Cèdre” bottling, made with 90% Malbec and 10% Merlot, is delicious when served alongside grilled lamb chops. “Le Cèdre,” made with 90% Malbec and 5% each of Tannat and Merlot, undergoes an extended maceration with pigeage, malolactic fermentation in barrel, and aging in 225- and 400-liter oak casks for 22 months. This wine, which should be laid down for a decade, has palate-staining fruit that evokes blackberry, mulberry, vanilla and clove, and moderate tannin—it would be an ideal pairing with a thick beef stew or duck confit.
-Imported by Martine’s Wines

Château la Coustarelle: Located just outside the town of Prayssac, Coustarelle is now run by Michel and Nadine Cassot’s daughter Caroline, who makes a couple of good value, finely crafted wines from their 30-hectare estate. The “Tradition,” made with 80% Malbec and 20% Merlot, is aged in tank and explodes with notes of blackberry and licorice. “Grand Cuvée Prestige,” made with 90% Malbec and 10% Tannat, is aged in barrel and is a more serious wine, with deeper, spicier flavors that work perfectly with grilled lamb or roast duck.
-Imported by Charles Neal Selections

Clos la Coutale: This domaine is one of the more widely available Cahors in the States. For years owner Philippe Bernède made just one wine at his large 60-hectare property, aging 80% Malbec and 20% Merlot in a variety of foudres and used barrels. A new wine, “Grand Coutale,” is made with Malbec, Merlot and Tannat, fermented in foudre with pigeage, and aged in new and used barrels for nearly two years. With more structure than the normal bottling, this is built for the long haul. Bernède also has a corkscrew line called “Le Coutale” from which he derives nearly 40% of his income.
-Imported by Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant

Domaine Mas del Périé: The domaine is located in Trespoux-Rassiels, the highest-altitude village along the plateau of Cahors. Fabien Jouves took over from his father at this family domaine in 2006 and completely changed its politics, converting to biodynamic viticulture, aging some wines in amphora, minimizing sulfur levels and adopting a more modern, sometimes startling, presentation for his bottlings. Currently at 25 hectares, Jouves is reducing his holdings to 20 hectares and also buys grapes from other agriculturally minded growers. In addition to Malbec, Merlot and Tannat, Jouves has a little of the nearly extinct Jurançon Noir, which he bottles separately. Jouves’ wines often show silky textures not commonly seen within the region. “We’re like a Burgundy domaine in Cahors,” Jouves states. “The most emphasis is on the vines, and we avoid getting too involved in the cellar.” “Les Escures” is made with 100% Malbec, which is half de-stemmed and aged in tank. It has forward notes of black fruits and licorice and is an excellent introduction to the wines of the property. “La Roque” is more serious and sees some barrel aging. Its color is deeper, its texture denser, and its fine tannin more present. “Amphore” comes from grapes grown on iron-rich soils and is aged in amphorae. Its slight volatility gives the fruit a more expansive feel and finer finishing tannins.
-Imported by Return to Terroir and Zev Rovine Selections

Fabien Jouves in Cahors

Château de Haute-Serre (Vigouroux): Owned by the family with the most famous name in Cahors, Vigouroux has been a reputable négociant firm since 1887. Now run by Bertrand Vigouroux, the family vinifies wines from 150 hectares, releasing wines destined for supermarkets along with those from four different estates that show more personality and breed, including Château de Mercuès, Château de Tournelles, Château Leret-Monpezat and Chateau de Haute-Serre. A couple of these have been painstakingly replanted and upgraded, resulting in wines with more purity and focus. Mercuès and Haute Serre also boast hotels and restaurants. Bertrand’s latest project is a collaborative effort with American Paul Hobbs called Crocus (the local name for saffron), which undoubtedly will be directed at a luxury market and bring more American attention to the region. The 60-hectare Haute-Serre now makes a Chardonnay released as IGP Côtes du Lot called “Albesco,” which has notes of flowers, citrus, and honey brittle supported by bright acids—rather Rully-like. The 2011 “Haute-Serre” Cahors shows blackberry, anise and musk flavors wrapped in a velvety texture. The prestige cuvée, named “Géron Dadine” after a 15th-century proprietor of the estate, is fermented and aged in oak barrels. This wine has deeper, thicker fruit and more spice, along with more oak that will need some time to become integrated.
-Imported by Baron Francois

Other Wine-Producing Appellations in the Area

There are about a dozen other growing areas in this part of the Southwest which, apart from a couple, are rarely seen outside the region. They all fill gaps and differ from their more famous neighbors because of their slight variance of permitted varieties and slightly different soils.

Coteaux du Quercy AOP: This red and rosé only-appellation is located south of Cahors as one moves toward Gaillac. The soil is limestone-dominated and the major grape is Cabernet Franc—it must be used in 40% to 60% of the vineyard. Other permitted varieties include Malbec, Tannat, Merlot and Gamay (none of which can exceed 25% of the vineyard or blend). Gamay is being phased out. It obtained VDQS status in 1999 and was granted an AOP in 2011.

Côtes du Lot IGP: This IGP runs along the borders of Cahors and is used for wines of all three colors. Côtes du Lot denominations are most frequently seen on bottles of white or rosé wine made by Cahors producers, or on red wines made with grapes not authorized in Cahors.

Comté Tolosan IGP: Grapes going into these wines can come from ten different départements in the Southwest, ranging from the Pyrénées to the Massif Central. Permitted grapes include Cabernet Franc, Cabernet-Sauvignon, Cot, Duras, Gamay, Merlot, Négrette, Pinot Noir, Syrah and Tannat for reds; and Chardonnay, Chenin, Colombard, Len de l’El, Gros and Petit Manseng, Mauzac, Muscadelle, Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon and Ugni Blanc for whites. Most of the wines bearing this name, however, come from vineyards closer in proximity to Toulouse—often producers in Fronton, Gaillac or Cahors use this IGP to make white wines not authorized by the appellations.

Côtes du Tarn IGP: This former Vin de Pays includes all of Gaillac and 41 other communes to the west, south and east. The IGP permits an inordinate amount of varieties, many of which were abandoned by the Gaillac legislation. Varieties allowed include (for reds) Carignan, Cinsault, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Alicante Bouschet, Duras, Egiodola, Fer Servadou, Gamaret, Gamay, Gamay de Bouze, Gamay de Chaudenay, Jurancon Noir, Malbec, Merille, Merlot, Négrette, Tannat, Portugais Bleu, Prunelard and Syrah. Sanctioned varieties for whites include Chardonnay, Chasan, Colombard, Gros Manseng, L’En de l’El, Listan, Mauzac, Mauzac Rose, Ondenc, Muscadelle, Sauvignon, Semillon, Ugni Blanc and Petit Manseng. And you thought Gaillac was difficult to categorize…

Saint-Sardos AOP: This is a red and rosé appellation located on the rolling hillsides just west of Fronton. Syrah must account for at least 40% of the vineyards, accompanied by Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Tannat. The area became a Vin de Pays in 1973, a VDQS in 2005 and AOP in 2011.

Côtes de Millau AOP: This small, easternmost appellation in Southwest France takes its name from the picturesque valley town Millau, whose curve-filled Tarn river crossing has become considerably easier with the opening of the Millau Viaduct. With a tower summit of 1,125 feet above its base, it is the world’s tallest bridge. The vineyards run on each side of the river along terraced, south-facing slopes. Reds (which account for 70% of the region’s production) are made with Gamay and Syrah (each of which must be used in at least 30% of the wine) along with Fer Servadou, Cabernet Sauvignon and Duras. Whites need at least 50% Chenin Blanc, while the rest is composed of Mauzac. The region produces only 250,000 bottles of wine a year.

Entraygues et le Fel AOP: I thought Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh was the winner of the oddest appellation name in France, but this one makes me reconsider. Located about an hour northwest of Marcillac between rivers Truyère and Lot (Entraygues in the local dialect means “between rivers”), the appellation’s vines are planted on a hillside called le Fel within a landscape reminiscent of Marcillac, with its red soils and skeletal terraces once decorated with vines. Red wines and rosés, made with Fer Servadou, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Gamay, Jurançon Noir, Pinot Noir and other extremely obscure varieties—several of which are being phased out according to the new cahier des charges—tend to be light and spicy, while the whites, made with Chenin Blanc and Mauzac, are dry and mineral. This tiny appellation includes just 20 hectares.