This is the first of an in-depth examination of the Loire's four main regions.

The Central Loire Vineyards: An Overview

The 5394 hectares that make up the Central Loire vineyards are not only in the centre of the Loire Valley but also are in the heart of France. The bridge over the river at Pouilly-sur-Loire marks the halfway point of the river’s long journey to the sea – 1000 kilometres (600 miles), while the small village of Bruère-Allichamps is the dead centre of France (http://goo.gl/maps/bTHV3). With the exception of the Coteaux du Giennois, all of the Central Vineyard appellations are within 80 kilometres (50 miles) of this central point. 

Climate

Sancerre and Pouilly are around 260 miles from where the Loire reaches the Atlantic Ocean, so although broadly part of the overall Loire climate there are marked differences between here and the Pays Nantais. The winters are markedly cold. During a winter cold spell it is fascinating to drive from Sancerre to Quincy and then into eastern Touraine; one sees that there can easily be a difference of 7/8˚C or more between Sancerre and Tours.

The arrival of spring is around two weeks later than in Anjou and the Pays Nantais, so the growing season is considerably shorter.   

One would imagine that being well inland, this would be the driest part of the Loire Valley, but curiously this is not the case. The average annual rainfall at the Bourges weather station (747.9 mm) is higher than those at both Tours (695 mm) and Angers (693 mm), although not as high as the station at Nantes (820 mm). Nevers, some 25 miles south of Pouilly-sur-Loire, records 804 mm--nearly as high as Nantes, yet so much further from the Atlantic Ocean.  

It is interesting to compare average annual temperatures and the hours of sunlight between Angers and Nevers. Angers has 1798 hours of sunshine a year and an average temperature range of 7.9˚C-16.6˚C, while Nevers has 1774 hours and a temperature range of 5.8˚C-16.0˚C. It is clear that it is the lower average annual temperature in Nevers that determines that grape varieties such as Cabernet Franc and Chenin Blanc, which ripen successfully further west in the Loire Valley, just will not ripen in the Central Vineyards.    

Soils

Pouilly and Sancerre are on the southern section of the crescent of marne Kimmeridgian soil and rock that stretches down from Champagne through the Aube and Chablis. The crescent finally comes to an end around Quincy, although here the marnes are under the sand and gravel beds typical of vineyards by the River Cher.

There are three main types of soil in the two appellations: limestone (known locally as caillottes), marne Kimmeridgean terres blanches (clay limestone) and silex (flint). In Sancerre, the caillottes and terres blanches account for 40% each and silex accounts for 20% of vineyard soils.

Generally lower vineyards are on the caillottes, where the soil is thin – and in places non-existent – with the vines literally planted into the white rock. Sauvignon Blanc from the caillottes are aromatic, expressive when young and are usually bottled early.  

In AC Sancerre the silex is centred around the town and at Ménétreol-sous-Sancerre. Les Romains from Domaine Vacheron is a well-known example of a white Sancerre from vines planted on flint. In Pouilly there are parcels of flint around Saint-Andelain and in the neighbouring commune of Tracy. They have a good potential to age. 

On the hillsides are the terres blanches, which produce the most structured wines. These are part of the marne kimmeridgean crescent, and it is quite common to find shellfish fossils in the terres blanches. For example, there are plenty around the Henri Bourgeois winery where the soil and rock was excavated during its construction. Wines from the terres blanches need a longer maturation period before they are ready to drink, and they age well. Many of Sancerre’s most famous and often steepest vineyards, such as La Côte des Monts Damnés (Chavignol), Cul de Beaujeu (Chavignol), La Grande Côte (Amigny), Clos de la Poussie (Bué) and the Côte de Champtin (Champtin) are planted on terres blanches.

Pouilly has the same three types of soil as Sancerre plus two others: Portlandian limestone and sand. At the southern extremity of Pouilly’s vineyards there are some very sandy vineyards. Jonathan Pabiot has recently acquired a vineyard there, which is called Les Mattrays.

The Burgundian Influence

Although the dominant Loire grape varieties tend to be Bordelais, with Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc being the most obvious examples, many Loire producers have a far greater affinity with Burgundy than they do with Bordeaux. In part this is because the family still plays a big part in the both wine regions, whereas at the top end Bordeaux is increasingly corporate.

Equally important is that in Bordeaux the emphasis is property – typified by the classifications of 1855 and those for Saint-Émilion and the Cru Bourgeois, whereas in Burgundy the classification is by terroir with single vineyards at the pinnacle. While there are certain longstanding, important single vineyards in the Loire Valley – some of the most famous examples are in the Central Vineyards, like Les Monts Damnés, Cul de Beaujeu, and La Grand Côte – it is noticeable that single vineyard wines are increasingly important in the Loire. The Vacherons in Sancerre, who have recently extended their single vineyard range beyond Les Romains (white) and La Belle Dame (red), and the terroir range of Pouilly-Fumés from Michel Redde are good examples of this accelerating trend. 

Of course, Pouilly is administratively in the region of Burgundy, and all of the Central Loire appellations are much closer to Chablis and the Côte d’Or than they are to Bordeaux. 

The Red Renaissance

Arguably the most important change here over the past 15 to 20 years has been the gradual and accelerating revaluation of Pinot Noir.  Until the early 1990s, red Sancerre, with rare exceptions, was light and dilute – hardly surprising as yields were around 60 hl/ha and more. 

In the early 1990s a new generation started to take Pinot Noir seriously: they started reducing the yields to around 40 hl/ha and lower, picking by hand, using sorting tables, and in general being much more selective over the quality of the grapes. A 1996 from Pascal and Nicolas Reverdy was the first of this new generation of Sancerre reds I tasted and it was a revelation: things were changing, and there was a vast, previously unexploited potential for Pinot Noir here. Amusingly the potential of Pinot Noir was also unknown to the producers.  When Alphonse Mellot Jr. returned to Sancerre to work on the family estate, he told his father that he wanted to make high quality Sancerre red, but his father told him that this was simply not possible. Alphonse Sr. was soon proved wrong!

The acclaim and commercial success of the red revolutionaries has produced a virtuous spiral and encouraged an increasing number of producers to treat their Pinot Noir with greater ambition and respect.   

Some suspect that red Sancerre is a recent invention. This is a fallacy: prior to the arrival of phylloxera, toward the end of the 19th century, red wine – made from Pinot Noir, Gamay, and, I suspect, other varieties that have since disappeared – dominated. It was not until the early part of the 20th century that Sauvignon became established as the region's major grape variety. It succeeded to such an extent that, while white Sancerre earned the status of appellation contrôlée in 1937, the red and rosé wines did not achieve this status until 1959.

Of course, high quality Pinot Noir reds are not confined to Sancerre, as fine examples can be found in Menetou-Salon and Reuilly, from Henry Pellé and Denis Jamain (Domaine de Reuilly), respectively. Unfortunately, the potential of wines made from 100% Pinot Noir in the Coteaux du Giennois and Châteaumeillant has been hobbled by the bizarre insistence by the INAO that one of the conditions of being promoted to appellation contrôlée status was that pure Pinot Noir would not be allowed. Instead, Pinot Noir must be blended with Gamay. This doctrinaire insistence ignored the fact that the best reds from both the Coteaux de Giennois and Châteaumeillant (as VDQS zones) tended to be those made from 100% Pinot Noir. No matter, either, that combining Gamay and Pinot Noir hardly produces world-beating wines. I have certainly never tasted a Gamay-Pinot Noir that I thought was remarkable.      

It is a pity that, while the reds have improved, rosés from Sancerre and Menetou-Salon very rarely justify their high price.  

Vineyard management and vinification

Over the past ten years there has been a noticeable move away by the leading producers from conventional chemical vineyard practices. At the end of the 1990s and early 2000s it was common for heavy storms to wash large quantities of soil down the steep slopes. I remember one early August storm, in 2000 I think, when there was a small landslide and the road between Chavignol and Saint-Satur was blocked. A number of wine cellars were flooded. 

Since then there has been a reduction in the amount of weed killer used and more vineyards have been grassed over or harrowed, although neither approach is without its problems. In vineyards planted on very thin soils, grass can provide too much competition, especially in drought years, and harrowing can encourage erosion if there is heavy rain. 

The steepest vineyards in Sancerre and Pouilly require careful management in order to avoid erosion or to keep it to a minimum. The catastrophic state of the Clos de la Poussie, owned by Baron Patrick Ladoucette, is an objective lesson in what can go wrong. Deep ravines have been gouged into the steep slopes, exposing vine roots. There is now some remedial work underway, doubtless at a considerable cost. 

There has also been a move to organic and biodynamic viticulture. Leading biodynamic estates include Alphonse Mellot, Domaines Fouassier and Vacheron in Sancerre, Alexandre Bain and Jonathan Pabiot (part) in Pouilly, and Domaine Philippe Gilbert in Menetou-Salon. In Reuilly, Denis Jamain is in his first year of conversion.   

The vast majority of the whites and rosés are vinified in stainless steel and it is customary for many to be bottled early in the year following the vintage.  There are a few producers like Alphonse Mellot, Benjamin Dagueneau and the Vacherons, for whom all or the majority of their wines are vinfied and aged in wood. The size of barrels varies considerably from 225/228 litre barriques through 350, 400,­ 500 and 600 litre barrels. There are also producers, like the Vacherons, who are using small foudres (around 12 hl) from Franz Stockinger, an Austrian cooperage.

Rather confusingly it is becoming increasingly common for producers to call all small barrels from 225-600 litres "barriques", which then makes it necessary to ask them to clarify which size they are actually using. Overall in the Loire true barriques have frequently been replaced with larger sizes, which many vignerons feel reduces the wood influence on the wines and allows them to keep their delicate Loire character.  

The Central Loire Vineyards: The Appellations

Sancerre
2926 total hectares (631 ha Pinot Noir, 2295 ha Sauvignon Blanc) 

Sancerre is not only the largest of the Central Loire appellations, but it is also the engine of the region. Over the past 60 years Sancerre has been transformed from a poor backwater to the wealthiest and most successful of the Loire appellations.   

In the early 1950s smallholding polyculture was the norm with many of the houses bereft of running water. When Jean-Marie Bourgeois started work on the family smallholding in Chavignol in 1956, they had just 3.5/4 ha. The previous year (1955) they filled 15,000 bottles. “An enormous quantity for those days,” Jean-Marie explained. “In 1957/58 we started making deliveries en vrac (in bulk) in a Peugeot van to Paris. In 1965 my brother built the first cuve (vat)." Domaine Henri Bourgeois now has some 70 hectares of vines – mainly in Sancerre and Pouilly – and buys in an equivalent amount of must from another 70 hectares. This excludes their Clos Henri estate in New Zealand’s Marlborough. Visit most producers in Sancerre today and you will find here the most modern equipment of anywhere in the Loire – the latest in sorting tables, presses, vibrating lifting tables to take grapes direct to the vats, etc. 

Sancerre (and, to a lesser extent, parts of Pouilly) offers the most spectacular and attractive vineyard sites in the Loire, with the sole exception of those far up in the Massif Central: Côte Roannaise, Côtes de Forez and the Côtes d’Auvergne. Sancerre has steep rolling hills, which are particularly attractive in the autumn, clad in stunning reds and golds.   

Maison des Sancerre (www.maison-des-sancerre.com)

Anyone visiting Sancerre for the first time would do well to start at the Maison des Sancerre, which provides an excellent explanation of the geological forces that made the Sancerre landscape and rock structure, as well as videos on the year of a vigneron and the history of Sancerre – how it changed in some 50 years from being a rural backwater to a wine known around the world. The audiovisual displays are excellent. 

Overlooking the town of Sancerre, above Chavignol

Some Recommended Producers

• Henri Bourgeois: The leading producer in the Central vineyards, based in Chavignol. Their range covers all of the Central Vineyards plus Le Petit Bourgeois (vin de pays) from Touraine. Very impressive quality for their size. Stronger in white than red. 
• Domaine Merlin-Cherrier: good producer of white Sancerre in Bué. 
• François Cotat and Pascal Cotat: now two separate domaines – both very small. Making similar rich and characterful wines. La Grande Côte and Les Monts Damnés from both are recommended, plus Cul de Beaujeu from François.
• François Crochet: Excellent producer (both red and white) in Bué making very pure wines. 
• Lucien Crochet: Fine, elegant wines from another equally meticulous Crochet in Bué. The Cuvée Prestige red and white are particularly good.
• Domaine Bernard Fleuriet: Good 20 ha estate at Menetou-Ratel with 3 ha in Menetou-Salon.
• Domaine Fouassier: Under the new generation (Paul and Benoît) this large Sancerre estate (56 ha) has improved significantly. Now biodynamic with a strong emphasis on single vineyards.
• Alphonse Mellot: Alphonse Senior and Junior are both passionate producers. Now biodynamic and equally strong in red as white. Also Les Pénitents in the Côtes de la Charité – Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
• Henry Natter: fine producer (red and white) in Montigny at extreme west of the appellation adjoining Menetou-Salon. L’Expression de Cécile is the top wine in both red and white.  
• Vincent Pinard: undoubtedly one of the leading estates in Sancerre. Now increasingly run by Clément and Florent.  All wines are of a high standard, especially Charlouise (red), and Flores and Nuance (white).
• Pascal and Nicolas Reverdy: Family estate in Maimbray. One of first to be involved in Red Renaissance, which is probably the family's best suit. Sadly, Nicolas was killed in a tree-felling accident.  
• Domaine Claude Riffault: On-form domaine in Sury-en-Vaux run by the dynamic Stéphane Riffault, son of Claude.
• Jean-Max Roger: quality family estate in Bué making good red as well as white, plus some Menetou-Salon. 
• Dominique Roger: estate in Bué making impressive reds
• Paul Thomas: winner of the 2012 Decanter World Wine Award Regional Trophy for Loire reds.
• Domaine Vacheron: well-established, high quality family domaine in the centre of Sancerre. Under the impetus of the younger generation – Jean-Dominique and Jean-Laurent – the estate has converted to biodynamics   
• Sébastien Riffault: A challenging producer, making an oxidative style of Sancerre. Part of the ‘natural’ wine movement. 

Pouilly and Sancerre are an interesting contrast. Geographically Sancerre is a much more cohesive appellation with a clear central focus – the town of Sancerre – while Pouilly is much more disparate without a clear centre. The butte of Sancerre dominates the appellation of Sancerre even from places where it cannot be seen. Concentric rings. The town centre is vibrant and attracts many visitors, especially in the summer of autumn. In contrast, with its vineyards running from north to south, Pouilly has no real centre. Pouilly, which used to be a staging post on the once famous Route Nationale 7, taking Parisians down to the Côte d’Azur, has long been bypassed and the small town sunk into torpor.    

Similarly Sancerre has had leaders, like Alphonse Mellot, Jean-Marie Bourgeois, Denis Vacheron and others, to promote the appellation and develop and inspire younger producers. In Pouilly the most prominent producers, in particular the late Didier Dagueneau and Baron Patrick Ladoucette, have remained apart.  Although Didier Dagueneau undoubtedly inspired some young producers, he was by nature a rebel and frequently attacked the lax practices of his fellow producers – often fair comment but an unlikely approach to get them to change their ways. Ladoucette, although the largest producer is Pouilly, is an international businessman based in Paris. Furthermore his husbandry of the wonderful Clos de la Poussie site in Bué (Sancerre) has been scandalous.  

Over the past 15 years the overall quality of Pouilly-Fumé has often been disappointing, particularly in comparison to that of Sancerre – too many dilute and uninteresting wines offering poor value.  I do, however, sense that the quality of Pouilly-Fumé is on the up with a number of promising younger vignerons such as Alexandre Bain, Jonathan Pabiot and Sébastien Treuillet, along with Benjamin Dagueneau, who has very capably stepped into his late father’s shoes. In recent tastings held at the Bureau du Vins de Centre in Sancerre and at this year’s Decanter World Wine Awards wines from Pouilly have been considerably better than in the past.

Even though many producers make a small amount to keep up the tradition, the production of Pouilly-sur-Loire continues to decline. There are now just 30 hectares of Chasselas left. It would be a pity to see it die out entirely as the Chasselas is central to the history of Pouilly-sur-Loire. Until the railways reached the Midi by 1850, Pouilly was a very important supplier of Chasselas (as a table grape) to Paris.  Michel Redde is one of the very few producers to take Chasselas seriously with their Gustave Daudin made from yields of 20-25 hl/ha.      

Château de Tracy

Some Recommended Producers

• Alexandre Bain: small biodynamic estate and part of ‘natural’ wine movement
• Alain Cailbourdin: Alain has now been joined by his son at their 16 ha domaine at Maltaverne.  
• Jean-Claude Chatelain: consistently good producer in Les Berthiers.  
• Domaine Didier Dagueneau: The greatest Sauvignon Blanc estate in the world? Benjamin Dagueneau successfully took over when his father, Didier, was killed in a micro-light plane crash in September 2008. 
• Serge Dagueneau et Filles: high quality family domaine in Les Berthiers. Look out for Clos des Chadoux and La Léontine. Also have vines in the Côtes de la Charité
• Château de Favray (Quentin David): to the east of the appellation   
• André and Edmond Figeat: six-generation estate now run by André and based in Pouilly itself.
• Domaine Michel Redde: one of the leading estates in Pouilly with the younger generation takng over.
• Jean Pabiot – Domaine des Fines Roches: based in Les Loges. Often rich, full style of wines.
• Jonathan Pabiot: very promising young producer who has taken over from his father. Estate is partially biodynamic.  
• Sébastien Treuillet: low profile but high quality; the estate produces Pouilly-Fumé, Coteaux du Giennois and some Vin de Pays Sauvignon.
• Château de Tracy: The family of Comte Henry d’Assay has owned Tracy since 1586. Impressive quality but the wines tend to need some time in bottle to show their best.

Benjamin Dagueneau

In 2010 production of white Menetou was 17,046 hls, red 8345 hl and rosé 973hl. 87% of sales are in France with 13% exported. 

Some Recommended Producers

• Pierre and Isabelle Clément, Domaine du Chatenoy: 15 generations in this domaine in the town of Menetou-Salon.
• Domaine Bernard Fleuriet: see Sancerre entry
• Domaine Philippe Gilbert: Since Philippe took over from his father quality has improved dramatically. The estate is now biodynamic and Philippe is making some of the best win in the appellation.
• Bertrand Minchin, Domaine Tour Saint-Martin: 16 ha here plus Claux Delorme in the Valençay appellation.
• Pierre Jacolin – Le Prieurie de Saint-Cérols: 10 ha family estate in eastern part of appellation.  
• Domaine Henry Pellé: leading Menetou-Salon estate based in Morogues with also vines in Sancerre. In particular Les Blanchais (white) and Les Cris (red). 

Anne and Paul-Henry Pellé