Exploring British Columbia’s Geographical Indications: A Guide for Wine Professionals

Exploring British Columbia’s Geographical Indications: A Guide for Wine Professionals

Wine terminology can seem like an intricate puzzle, with abbreviations, such as PDO, AOC, and DOC, acting as keys to understanding the world’s most renowned regions. In British Columbia (BC), Canada’s westernmost province and one of the northernmost winegrowing regions globally, the term to master is GI, or Geographical Indication.

When it was introduced in 2018, British Columbia’s GI system marked a pivotal evolution in classifying the province’s distinct viticultural areas. Previously, the available designation was that of the Vintners Quality Alliance (VQA) system. The VQA, when it originated in 1988, was a significant milestone for Canadian wine, but it focuses primarily on grape quality and winemaking standards without addressing the geographical factors shaping the character of a wine. The GI system, on the other hand, was developed in response to the varied climate of BC and aligns the region with global practices, ensuring that the province’s wines are recognized for not only their quality but also their sense of place. This framework reflects the diversity in climate, soil, and topography that marks British Columbia’s wine regions, which stretch from the sun-drenched Okanagan Valley to the cool, ocean-tempered vineyards of Vancouver Island. Today, in addition to the GI for the province of BC, there are 9 regional GIs and 12 sub-GIs. An application for Black Sage Bench sub-GI is currently under review.

BC wines are steadily carving out a reputation on the global stage, becoming recognized for their bright acidity and fresh, vibrant fruit profiles. The Okanagan Valley is by far BC’s most significant regional GI, accounting for 80% of the province’s output, with the remaining 20% split across the eight other GIs. But while these regions have a small output, they are young and dynamic, with great quality potential. The GI system offers wine professionals a detailed lens through which to understand all of British Columbia’s regions and the varied climates, soils, and production methods that define them.

Okanagan Valley GI

Spanning over 155 miles (250 kilometers) from north to south, the Okanagan Valley includes 10,920 planted acres (4,420 hectares) and 226 licensed wineries. Quality winemaking is well established here, with producers crafting versatile wines that range from crisp, mineral-driven whites to full-bodied reds. This variation in styles is made possible by the Okanagan Valley’s dry, sun-soaked climate, with hot summers and cold winters; its diversity of soils, including glacial deposits alongside sandy and gravelly soils; and its topography, featuring steep slopes and broad valley floors. The Okanagan Valley is home to 11 of BC’s 12 sub-GIs: Golden Mile Bench, Golden Mile Slopes, Naramata Bench, Okanagan Falls, Skaha Bench, East Kelowna Slopes, Lake Country, South Kelowna Slopes, Summerland Bench, Summerland Lakefront, and Summerland Valleys.

Northern Okanagan Valley

Cooler average temperatures, between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit (22 and 28 degrees Celsius) in the summer, prevail in the northern reaches near Kelowna, providing an ideal setting for aromatic white varieties, including Pinot Gris, Riesling, and Gewürztraminer. Mineral-rich glacial and fluvial soils dominate, offering excellent drainage that contributes to the crisp acidity typical of the region’s whites.

The northern Okanagan has been a cornerstone of BC’s wine industry since 1932, when Calona Vineyards first began making commercial wine. It took several decades for the industry to gain steam, growing substantially in the late 1970s and early 1980s through the efforts of producers such as Gray Monk Estate Winery and St Hubertus, which still make wine today.

Southern Okanagan Valley

South toward the towns of Penticton and Oliver, the climate becomes warmer and drier—perfect conditions for cultivating bold, full-bodied red wines. The southern Okanagan, with its patchwork of sandy, silty, and clay-based loam soils, has emerged as a powerhouse of BC’s red wine production since the 1990s. Historic producers, including Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery and Sumac Ridge Estate Winery, have harnessed the area’s potential to create internationally acclaimed red wines that showcase bold, savory red and black fruit flavors and robust structures.

Similkameen Valley GI

The Similkameen Valley, often overshadowed by its neighbor, the Okanagan Valley, has quietly become one of British Columbia’s most intriguing wine regions. Since the first vines were planted in the 1990s, the valley has garnered attention for producing high-quality and expressive wines from its dramatic, untamed landscape. Today, 768 acres (310 hectares) are planted to vineyards, and there are 22 licensed wineries. The valley’s average summer temperatures are in the mid-80s Fahrenheit (30 degrees Celsius), and the area is drier than much of BC, with less than an inch of rain over the entire growing season, offering the perfect conditions for cultivating powerful red wines. The three most planted grapes are Merlot (18%), Cabernet Sauvignon (11%), and Cabernet Franc (10%). Chardonnay is the top white, representing 9% of plantings.

The Similkameen River slices through this rugged terrain, acting as a natural wind tunnel that not only cools the vineyards but also keeps pests at bay, creating an environment suited to organic and biodynamic practices. With over 40% of the valley’s vineyards organically cultivated, the region’s growers are leaders in sustainable winegrowing in BC.

The valley’s stony, fast-draining soils, combined with intense heat, present challenging growing conditions that stress the vines, yielding grapes with concentrated fruit flavors and a distinctive, rocky minerality. This quality, coupled with rich, bold fruit, gives the wines an earthy character.

Fraser Valley GI

Tucked just outside Vancouver, Fraser Valley GI is a region where maritime breezes and fertile soils converge to create a distinctive winemaking environment. The soils here are predominantly alluvial and rich in organic material, with excellent drainage. The cool, wet climate—thanks to the nearby Pacific Ocean—is hospitable to aromatic white varieties, such as Riesling, Siegerrebe, and Pinot Gris, as well as cooler-climate reds, including Pinot Noir and Maréchal Foch. The maritime influence ensures mild winters and temperate summers.

The valley was first planted with Bacchus grapes, in the 1980s, by Chaberton Estate Winery. The next grapes planted were Siegerrebe, Sylvaner, Ortega, and Gamay Noir. Today, Bacchus and Siegerrebe are still prominent, while plantings of Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris have helped the region steadily grow in reputation and output. While the Fraser Valley is home to only 194 vineyard acres (79 hectares), 1.5% of the province’s total, and 43 wineries, it is particularly notable for its lively whites and sparkling wines.

Vancouver Island GI

With its cool coastal climate, Vancouver Island is a promising frontier for viticulture. The Pacific Ocean’s moderating influence and the region’s diverse soils result in wines with elegance, bright acidity, and complex flavors. Pinot Noir (22%), Pinot Gris (19%), and Ortega (7%) are key varieties here, thanks to the island’s extended growing season.

Vancouver Island’s viticultural history began in the 1970s, when a handful of pioneering vintners took a bold step into this challenging maritime climate. They discovered that the area’s varied soils, ranging from clay loam to gravelly, well-draining substrates, could yield wines with remarkable depth.

Vancouver Island has 321 planted vineyard acres (130 hectares) and 22 wineries. Its significance is rapidly growing, particularly as the global wine industry grapples with the impacts of climate change. The island’s maritime climate is increasingly recognized as an asset, offering a haven for grape varieties that struggle in warmer regions. This potential has been noticed by major players in the wine industry, including Jackson Family Wines, which has invested heavily in the region since 2020. Jackson Family now owns Unsworth Vineyards and Blue Grouse Estate Winery, which are in the Cowichan Valley sub-GI, the only sub-GI in British Columbia located outside the Okanagan Valley.

Gulf Islands GI

Gulf Islands GI, an archipelago between Vancouver Island and the mainland, benefits from a distinctive microclimate, where the maritime influence moderates temperatures. The limited land available for vineyards and the challenges of island agriculture (some of the islands are accessible only by boat or floatplane) create a setting that is particularly well suited to small-scale, artisanal winemaking. Viticulture here is relatively recent, with commercial vineyards first planted in the 1990s. There are 110 planted acres (45 hectares), less than 1% of BC’s total, and 12 wineries.

The climate on the Gulf Islands is marked by mild winters and cool, breezy summers, with significantly less rainfall than other coastal areas: 41 inches (105 centimeters) annually versus 73 inches (185 centimeters) on nearby Vancouver Island. The GI has an extended growing season that allows grapes to ripen slowly and retain acidity. The soils across the islands vary widely, from sandy loams to gravelly substrates, all of which provide excellent drainage.

Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris make up 53% of vineyards, while grapes such as Ortega and Siegerrebe also thrive in the cooler climate. The focus here is on small production, with wineries such as A Sunday in August, Corlan Vineyard and Farm, and Garry Oaks Estate Winery embracing organic practices.

Thompson Valley GI

The Thompson Valley, situated north of the Okanagan Valley, has a distinct continental climate. This region has warm, sun-drenched days and cool nights. The first vineyards were planted in the early 2000s. Today, 93 acres (38 hectares) are shared between the region’s three licensed wineries, Monte Creek Winery, Privato Vineyard and Winery, and Sagewood Winery, which also purchase grapes from nearby GIs to support their portfolios.

The valley’s soils, primarily composed of sandy loam with excellent drainage properties, play a crucial role in developing the region’s wines. Summers here are hot, and winters are harsh and cold. An array of grape varieties is grown, from the early-ripening Riesling (10% of plantings) and Chardonnay (11%) to reds, including Pinot Noir (12%), Marquette, and Maréchal Foch, the latter two grown in smaller quantities and unique to the Thompson Valley. The intense diurnal temperature shifts allow the grapes to develop complex flavors while retaining their natural acidity.

The Thompson Valley is gaining recognition as one of British Columbia’s most exciting new GIs, with wines noted for their freshness and precision.

Shuswap GI

Shuswap GI, centered around the scenic Shuswap Lake, is one of BC’s lesser-known wine regions. The area has a moderate, lake-influenced climate, characterized by warm summers and cool, wet winters. Its alluvial soils are rich in organic matter. Winemaking here began in the late 1990s; Larch Hills Winery was the first licensed winery, in 1997. Larch Hills continues producing today, along with eight other small-scale wineries, including Sunnybrae Vineyards and Winery, Recline Ridge Vineyards and Winery, and Celista Estate Winery. There are 107 planted acres (43 hectares).

Shuswap GI’s aromatic white wines, made from grapes including Siegerrebe and Ortega, which combined make up 24% of the region’s vineyards, are increasingly attracting attention. Maréchal Foch is the most prolific red grape, accounting for 21% of plantings.

Kootenays GI

The Kootenays, a striking and remote region in British Columbia, has notably high-altitude vineyards and a cool continental climate. Elevations here range from 1,500 to 2,500 feet (450 to 750 meters) above sea level, and the region receives intense sunlight and has dramatic temperature shifts between day and night. Soils are stony and well draining, often consisting of glacial till and rocky outcrops, which enhance the complexity and mineral qualities of the wines.

Columbia Gardens Vineyard and Winery began commercial viticulture in the Kootenays in the early 2000s. Now, with just 116 acres (47 hectares) of vines and six wineries, the region is still a small player in British Columbia’s wine industry. Producers have identified that Pinot Noir (representing 27% of vines) and Gewürztraminer (9%) excel here, benefiting from the region’s high-altitude conditions and the ability of its soils to retain heat while providing excellent drainage.

Lillooet GI

Farther north, Lillooet GI is among British Columbia’s most exciting new frontiers in viticulture. Its first commercial vineyards were established in 2011 by Fort Berens Estate Winery, which is now one of two wineries, along with Cliff and Gorge Vineyards, in the GI.

Lillooet has hot summer days tempered by cool nights. The region’s soils, ranging from gravelly to alluvial deposits, offer excellent drainage. Varieties such as Syrah, Merlot, and Sauvignon Blanc are particularly well suited to these conditions.

Lillooet is the smallest of all the province’s geographical indications, growing about 50 acres (20 hectares) of grapes.

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Bibliography

British Columbia Wine Grape Council. 2022 B.C. Wine Grape Acreage Report. June 2023. https://www.bcwgc.org/sites/default/files/resource/files/2022%20BC%20Wine%20Grape%20Acreage%20Report_FINAL_0.pdf. 

Kelley, C. C., and R. H. Spilsbury. Soil Survey of the Okanagan and Similkameen Valleys British Columbia. Report No. 3 of British Columbia Survey. Ottawa: Edmond Cloutier, 1949. https://sis.agr.gc.ca/cansis/publications/surveys/bc/bc3/bc3_report.pdf.

Vinerra. “Lillooet.” Accessed November 20, 2024. https://www.vinerra.com/sub-region/canada-british-columbia-lillooet.

The Weather Network. “Historical Averages: North Okanagan, BC.” Accessed November 20, 2024. https://www.theweathernetwork.com/ca/historical/british-columbia/north-okanagan.

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