A couple of years ago I was asked by the Guild of Sommeliers to write an article about the wines from Southwest France. I enthusiastically agreed, but said that I could not write just one article because the region was too vast. Instead, I decided to break it down into three articles, to be researched in the three regions over three successive summers. The first installment dealt with the wines from Irouléguy, Jurançon and Madiran, whose influence from the Pyrénées and Atlantic are highly felt. The second part of the article focused on those wines grown where climate balances both Atlantic and Mediterranean influences: the highly eclectic Marcillac, Gaillac and Fronton, and the more mainstream Cahors. This third and final installment throws light on the wines that lie on the periphery of Bordeaux: Bergerac, Côtes de Duras, Côtes de Marmandais, Côtes de Brulhois, Buzet, and the Côtes de Gascogne.
The research for this article took place in the Summer of 2015 after visiting over one-dozen producers and tasting scores of wines in the region. This area of the southwest offers crisp, textural whites and awesome sweet wines often based around Muscadelle rather than Sémillon. And the red wines, often featuring Merlot, had deep color, rich fruit and round texture—the product of a warm climate and a high clay content in their soils. What’s more, the wines showed excellent value! Following each section are a number of producers whose wines are worth seeking out.
The Bergerac Region
Bergerac is the name of a city lying along the Dordogne River in the Dordogne département. Traveling from Bordeaux to Bergerac takes about an hour and a half by car, and during the 110-km trip east you pass through suburbs, St-Émilion, and fields filled with sunflowers, wheat, corn and vines. As the landscape changes, so does the character of its inhabitants. Bordeaux has the image of old-school bourgeois in BMWs and Mercedes, but Bergerac is decidedly middle class, with beat-up Renault and Peugeot cars lining the city’s somber, narrow streets. Bergerac is the capital of the Dordogne (pronounced “door-doan-ya”) département and has a population of about 28,000. The Dordogne is part of the larger Périgord region, home to the famous caves of Lascaux, with their Paleolithic cave paintings. Like Gascony, the region is also known for its culinary delicacies; in addition to southwestern duck staples (confit, foie gras, magret) it is renowned for black truffles and walnut oil. Cyrano of Bergerac comes to mind—the French novelist and playright commonly recognized by his outrageously long nose. The Dordogne is also known as a bastion of Englishness; the area contains thousands of homes owned by ex-pat Brits. In fact, some villages have a British population that outnumbers the French, while other towns have even elected a British mayor! There are direct flights from the Bergerac airport to numerous locations in Britain, which greatly facilitates travel between the two countries. Given Britain’s thirst for inexpensive yet good quality wines, Bergerac falls right in their comfort zone.
When speaking about Bergerac, it is very easy to succumb to the widely held stereotype of the region as Bordeaux’s brother from another mother. While it’s true that the regions border each other, they use the same grapes, and that Bergerac is generally less expensive, there are soil and climatic differences that set the two apart and make each unique. But to even generalize within Bergerac itself is difficult, as seven separate zones make many different wines—all with utterly different character. What makes each distinctive in its own right?
Bergerac AOPExcellent quality, everyday wines of all colors
Apart from Bordeaux, Bergerac is the largest appellation-controlled growing region in Southwest France, and 11,500 hectares are planted with vines. Annual production is approximately 530,000 hectoliters of wine (just over 6.6 million bottles); grapes are grown by 1,000 farmers and sold by 150 négoçiants. Bergerac, as we have learned, is also the name of its capital city. Surrounding the city are 13 appellations that are concentrated in specific areas. However, a producer in a sweet wine appellation like Saussignac may release a red wine as Bergerac, while a producer in Montravel might also release their red wine as a Bergerac, simply because the name Bergerac has more resonance with wine buyers in France and abroad.
About 55% of the region’s production is red—the wine some Brits call Périgord Purple. The climate of the region has less of the Atlantic influence that Bordeaux experiences, with less rainfall and slightly higher temperatures. Such a large area makes soils difficult to generalize, but clay and limestone with varying amounts of iron are usually in abundance. A number of pockets are made up of tertiary limestone lying above streams that make their way toward the Dordogne and Dropt Rivers south of Monbazillac. And southeast of Bergerac one encounters plateaus of sedimentary limestone as well as marl and clay soils with fossilized oyster deposits within white limestone—surfaces which tend to accentuate the power of certain wines.
For red and rosé wines, Bergerac regulations permit Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Cot (Malbec), Fer Servadou and Mérille (also known as Périgord). The last two are rarely seen, and most wines are dominated by Merlot. For white wines, Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Muscadelle and Sauvignon Gris are the most common. Ondenc, Ugni Blanc and Chenin Blanc are also permitted—usually to provide heightened acidity—but must not comprise more than 10% of the blend.
The Bergerac appellation covers ninety communes. Bergerac Sec (white wines) has a 60 hl/ha limit, while Bergerac Rouge and Bergerac Rosé are limited to 55 hl/ha. If released as a Côtes de Bergerac Blanc (in which the whites are usually moelleux or even liquoreux while the Côtes de Bergerac Rouge have a bit more concentration than their generic Bergerac Red brethren), yields are limited to 50 hl/ha.
Vignobles les Verdots: David Fourtout has created one of the more dynamic estates in Bergerac, covering 45 hectares. As the fourth generation to farm the property, David sustainably works vineyards planted on clay, limestone, gravel and loam along the Verdot River, part of which flows through his recently constructed, state-of-the-art winery. In this new facility, he practices modern winemaking techniques like cold-soaking, skin contact, micro-oxygenation, etc. As in other large Bergerac wineries, three different categories of wines are released: entry-level, fruity wines aged in tank (Clos des Verdots), slightly more concentrated wines with a percentage of oak aging (Château les Tours des Verdots), and more structured wines with more new oak and meant to age over the course of a decade (Grand Vin). I particularly liked the mid-range wines; the white is made with about half Sémillon and a quarter each of Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle, aged 10 months in barrel on fine lees. While plenty round due to the high Sémillon content, the wine never felt heavy, and it would make a great partner to grilled fish. The red version was mostly Merlot with about a quarter each of Cabernets Franc and Sauvignon. While the 2012 was still showing its oak, the 2008 was drinking beautifully and paired well with leg of lamb. A new white wine that will be interesting to follow was Le Vin, made with 65% Muscadelle and 35% Sémillon, harvested from a number of different terroirs, with whole-cluster fermentation, aged in rolling Tronçais barrels. The 2012 was still youthful but showed notes of exotic fruit, citrus, vanilla and toast on the nose, with a full-bodied palate that in several years will make a killer accompaniment to grilled swordfish. No known US importer.
Château Tour des Gendres: Over the past 20 years, Luc de Conti has established himself as one of Bergerac’s references—an inspiration to other vignerons in the southwest, a darling in the French press, and an important presence on restaurant wine lists. Having grown up nearby, Luc purchased the domaine in 1981 and set about to restructure its largely neglected vineyards. Along with the help of his cousin Francis, they converted to organic viticulture in 1994 and their 52 hectares are now farmed biodynamically. The winery is located in the southern part of Bergerac, about ten minutes south of Montbazillac. “Maybe Montravel has the soil to make better red wines,” Luc stated when I met with him late one summer afternoon. ”But this part of Bergerac is the land of white wines!” Indeed the soil here is comprised mainly of limestone, which runs very close to the surface, helping to create racy wines that retain plenty of elegance. Luc has continually experimented throughout his career, trying organic and high-density plantations, and incorporating new oak, micro-oxygenation and Stockinger foudres into the winemaking process. “I started out contradicting my dad and following my own ideas with how wine should be made,” Luc remembers. “But it all comes back to the quality of grapes in the vineyard, something my father always preached. Call it maturity or whatever you like, but now I realize my dad was often right.” The quality across the board at this domaine is excellent. The Cuvée de Conti white, made with 50% Sémillon, has tons of fruit that balanced by Sauvignon acidity and Muscadelle complexity. The classic red, made with a 50-50 blend of de-stemmed Merlot and Malbec grown on limestone and loam soils, is deep in color and round on the palate, a good choice for uncomplicated meals. Contine Périgourdine comes from a small parcel of Muscat à Petit Grains and is aged in 30-hl foudres. Loads of fruit—clementine, exotic citrus—never become cloying and help make this a good accompaniment to tandoori dishes. Le Petit Bois is made with pure Cabernet Sauvignon planted in the ‘40s and aged in foudre. This drank like classy Bordeaux without the awkward oak or tannin often found further west. But perhaps the most exciting wine was a geeky project that Luc is aging in both foudre and cement amphora in a dual experiment with Michel Riouspeyrous in Iroulèguy. Les Vignes d’Albert is made with red grapes like Périgord and Fer, which have largely disappeared from the region, and vinified without sulfur. The wine had great texture, red and black berry fruit, and well-integrated tannins on the finish. Imported by Martine’s Wines, CA, Paul Young Wines, CA, Baron Francois, NY
Luc de Conti.
Domaine du Jonc Blanc: Between 2000 and 2006, Franck Pascal was an administrator on the Bergerac wine council. But he left his post when his wines were refused the Bergerac appellation because of their lack of typicity and natural qualities. Originally from Paris, he bought Jonc Blanc in 2000 with his partner Isabelle Carles and immediately began farming his vineyards organically. In 2004, he converted to biodynamic farming. His 19 hectares of vines are principally planted on clay and limestone within Montravel (although he releases his wines as Vin de France), just 4 kilometers from the Côtes de Castillon border. In between the vines he further promotes biodiversity by planting various cereals and vegetables. After hand-harvesting his fruit, fermentation begins with indigenous yeasts and, depending on the wine, he ages in tank, foudre or 600-liter barrels with minimal usage of sulfur. Franck is keen to talk about a wine’s natural acidity: “Natural acidity persists on the palate and has length, just like the wine itself,” he states. “Wines that have been acidified are much shorter, they just have less power to their punch.” Franck admits that Bergerac is not easy to categorize, and not simply because of the numerous appellations. “Even in my vineyard, if the white has less than 3 grams of RS, it is Bergerac Sec,” he proclaims. “Between 3 and 9, Vin de France; 9-20 is Haut-Montravel and more than 20 grams becomes Cotes de Bergerac!” Particularly impressive was the domaine’s rosé, made with pure Merlot, partially directly pressed and partially saignée, replete with plummy and cherry notes—not unlike a version from Fronton. Also tasty was his 2011 Classik, which spent 12 months in barrel and 12 further months in foudre. Made with half Cabernet Sauvignon and half Cabernet Franc, it showed a ripe nose of blackberry, some leafy complexity and velvety tannins. This wine would be perfect with grilled leg of lamb. No known US importer.
Montravel AOP(s)Historically classy whites, but also rich, full-bodied reds
As you drive from Bordeaux toward Bergerac, Montravel is the first appellation you cross, not far from the Côtes de Castillon border. Montravel has a number of different terroirs, as the appellation is spread over rolling sand and iron-rich clay soils, while more concentrated limestone and clay compose the steeper slopes. Montravel has long been known to produce some of the finest dry whites in the region from a blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon and Muscadelle. The region also produces fine sweet wines as Côtes de Montravel (normally moelleux, like Rosette) or under the Haut-Montravel appellation, which is generally reserved for sweeter liquoreux wines. In 2001 a new appellation was granted to Montravel Rouge, with obligatory high-density plantings (5,000 vines per hectare minimum), a minimum of 50% merlot planted on limestone, and AOP status granted only after the bottled wine is tasted and approved by a committee—unique along with Champagne AOP in this regard.
Château Puy Servain: Daniel Hecquet is the third generation to occupy Puy Servain, the “windy hilltop.”
Hecquet studied enology in Bordeaux, wrote a thesis on Château d’Yquem, and worked for the Chamber of Agriculture in the Loire before returning to his home turf to take over the family farm. He worked as a consultant for numerous Bergerac producers and became the chief technical advisor for the interprofessional committee of Bergerac wines. Along with Serge Dubard, Hecquet was the driving force in creating a red appellation for the red Montravel appellation. He owns
62 hectares of vines grown sustainably on two properties: Puy Servain is the property in which his oaked Montravel and Haut Montravel cuvées are produced. At Chateau Calabre, a neighboring property, he releases fresh, tank-raised reds as Bergerac AOP. In addition, Hecquet has a 6-ha property in Pécharment called Domaine de Bertanoux. His unoaked Calabre blanc stands out: 50% Sauvignon Blanc, 40% Sémillon and 10% Muscadelle. It’s crisp and lively and perfect with seafood or white fish. The Puy Servain Montravel rouge Vieilles Vignes 2012 comes from clay and limestone soils. Made with 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc and aged in 60% new oak over the course of 15 months, this was a worthy competitor to many Cru Bourgeois Bordeaux, exuding elegant oak, deep blackcurrant and plum flavors, and silky tannins. His Haut-Montravel Terrement, made with 100% Sémillon wrapped in 125 g/l of residual sugar and some botrytis, was unctuous on the palate, exploding with aromas of dried apricot, pineapple and quince. It was superb with a slice of foie gras on a warm piece of toast. Imported by Robert Kacher Selections, The Wine House, CA and Vigneron Imports, CA
Château Laulerie: This large property in Saint-Méard-de-Gurcon is owned by the Dubard family. From 85 hectares on clay and limestone slopes, they produce a full range of wines including reds, whites and rosés aged in tank and/or barrel, and one sweet wine. The family settled in Montravel in 1977 and quickly established themselves as one of the larger, more consistent producers of technically fashioned wines, full of bright fruit and gentle acids. While all of their vineyards are in Montravel, they prefer releasing these wines in the United States as Bergerac, simply because the name is better known and more saleable. The Bergerac Sec 2014 (85% Sauvignon Blanc, 15% Sémillon) is aged in tank and shows fresh Sauvignon-esque aromas and a round palate feel. A foudre-aged Montravel 2013, made with 90% Sauvignon Blanc and 10% Sémillon, was Graves-like, with citrus fruit dominating the integrated oak aromas. Imported by Skurnik Wines and Fruit of the Vines, NY
Château Moulin Caresse: This 42-ha property owned by Sylvie and François Deffarge overlooks the Dordogne valley and makes solid, commercially sound wines. The reds, coming from clay and limestone soils along the gentle slopes, favor Merlot, supported by Cabernets Franc and Sauvignon and a bit of Malbec. Wines for youthful drinking are aged in tank, while the vins de garde are aged in various percentages of new oak. The château’s white wines come from the plateau’s sandier soils riddled with limestone and iron deposits—something that helps express the wines’ fine minerality. The Magie d’Automne is Sauvignon Blanc with a bit of Sémillon, Sauvignon Gris and Muscadelle, aged in a judicious amount of oak. This has flavors reminiscent of Graves yet with lots of freshness. No known US importer.
Pécharment AOPClassy red wines with elegant tannins
Pécharment is the smallest appellation within the Bergerac network, and the AOP only produces red wine. Granted in 1936, Pécharmant takes its name from the word pech (hill) and charmant (charming): the “charming hill.” Spread across four communes with south-facing slopes, its soils are largely composed of sand and gravel above tran, the local name for iron-rich clay. This terroir tends to give the wines ripe, round and concentrated fruit framed by velvety tannins, while the iron in the soil yields additional acidity that enables the wines to age gracefully. Four grapes are grown in Pécharment: Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. Maximum for any one variety is 65%, and at least three varieties must be used in the wines. Maximum yields are slightly lower than in Bergerac (45 hl/ha), and the wines must not be bottled until the September following the harvest. Pécharment has long been viewed as the most noble red wine in the region, and it is sometimes compared to Pomerol. About 2 million bottles are produced annually.
Domaine des Costes: Well-known and respected enologist Jean-Marc Dournel makes wine at this nearly 13-ha estate once owned by his wife’s family. Located adjacent to an industrial complex on the outskirts of Bergerac, it is not a very attractive winery; fortunately the wine is excellent! Dournel likens his wines to those of Pessac-Léognan and echoes that Pécharment, in general, has the finest tannins of the Bergerac wines and the most potential to age gracefully. Dournel’s vineyards have been certified organic since 2007 and farmed biodynamically since 2008. While his 2011 Cuvée Tradition, made with a tank-aged blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, showed pleasing notes of cherry, cassis and finished with light tannins, the 2010 flagship wine is composed of predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, with about 20% Cabernet Franc. The nose is classy, combining blackcurrant and cherry with a touch of lead pencil, vanilla and tobacco. The palate was well-balanced and exhibited plenty of finesse, finishing with fine tannins. This was one of the more elegant wines I tasted while in the region. Imported by Chambers Street Wine Merchants, NY
Rosette AOPSemi-sweet wines that are perfect with light snacks
Rosette borders Pécharment and is historically closely linked, sharing a history that dates back to the 13th century. Unlike Pécharment, Rosette is an appellation of moelleux white wine; the AOP permits a semi-sweet wine that contains 25-51 g/l of residual sugar (as opposed to 80-150 g/l liquoreux wines in Monbazillac and Saussignac). Established in 1946, the AOP covers the communes of Bergerac, Creysse, Lembras, Ginestet, Maurens and Prigonrieux. Soils include clay and a little limestone, but above all light sand. Vineyards face south—opposite those of Monbazillac—and have more exposure to the sun. Permitted grape varieties are Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc (15% minimum) and Muscadelle. Yields are limited to 40 hl/ha. Not many producers exist in Rosette, and most began their domaines within the past 20 years. These are vins de l’apres-midi, or wines for the afternoon: slightly sweet, uncomplicated wines bursting with fruit and just enough acid to permit continued drinking. I hesitate to say that this could be the White Zinfandel of the region but—oops—I guess I just said it!
Chateau de Rooy: Gilles Gérault has 8 hectares of vines in Rosette and 10 in neighboring Pécharment, both of which were purchased in 1998. From his winery overlooking the Dordogne River and the hills of Monbazillac, he makes a delightful Rosette that has aromas of pear and grapefruit. Delightful on its own, this would also be tasty with a fruit tart. No known American importer.
Monbazillac AOPSauternes’ country cousin
Apart from Bergerac, Monbazillac is the most known appellation in the region.
Wines have been made here since the 14th century, and they achieved particular acclaim in the 1700s when nearly the entire production was exported to Holland, where it was considered an absolute rival to Sauternes. In the second half of the 20th century, destructive frosts, the emergence of low-density planting, machine-harvesting, and excessive chaptalization caused the quality and reputation of the wines to plummet. In the 21st century, thanks to more conscientious work in the vineyards and the winery, a return to the region’s former glory has begun.
Located several kilometers south of the city of Bergerac, the appellation is spread over five communes, with vineyards typically occupying northern-facing slopes. The autumn mists that rise from the Dordogne River, together with sunny afternoons, provide wonderful conditions for development of Botrytis cinerea, more commonly known as noble rot. If the mists are missing, the botrytis doesn’t develop. If the warm weather stops, the humidity becomes too high and the noble rot becomes grey rot.
Soils combine molasse (marine sediments) and limestone, covered with a thin layer of clay. Closer to the river, increased clay and gravel provide good footholds for vines that will produce lighter, more rapidly maturing sweet wines. Two types of Monbazillac exist: the Classique with about 70 g/l of residual sugar per liter, and the Selection de Grains Nobles, with more than 85 g/l of residual sugar from some shriveled grapes. Then there are the Grand Cuvées, which are made only in specific years from mostly botrytized fruit, with residual sugar levels exceeding 150 g/l.
Noble rot in Monbazillac.
Château Tirecul La Gravière: Virtually unknown 20 years ago, Tirecul la Gravière has become the most lauded domaine in Monbazillac. Bruno Bilancini was an enologist at the cooperative until the early ‘90s, when he and his wife Claudie rented a few vines on a north-facing slope where the limestone soils drained well, the clay content helped maintain moisture essential for the autumn mists, and the warm winds homogenously concentrated their grapes. In 1997 they bought the 9-ha property and slowly transformed the farm to organic viticulture; they were certified in 2012. Vines average 35 years of age (although many are over 80) and, when new plantings are necessary, massale selections are favored over clones. 54% of the vineyard is planted to Sémillon, with only 1% Sauvignon Blanc and 45% Muscadelle—a high value for the latter. “Muscadelle is almost the opposite of Sémillon in terms of structure,” Bruno states. “While Sémillon brings richness, creaminess and honey notes, Muscadelle brings balance and freshness to wines containing noble rot, and a complex nose that mixes dried fruits—especially orange zest and spices like saffron.” Harvest is manual and takes place over the course of several weeks, with only the botrytized grapes making their way to the press. Yields for the liquoreux wines are in the 5 to 18 hl/ha range. Due to their vineyard’s exposure and microclimate, the Bilancinis normally get a very high percentage of pourriture noble, and in 2009 they were able to harvest all of their grapes the same week. No chaptalization is employed, and the grapes are pressed for several hours before flowing by gravity into oak barrels where fermentation begins with indigenous yeast. Aging in barrel lasts from 1-3 years, depending on the vintage and the cuvée. A dry white is made on the property, as well as three sweet wines. The sweet wines are some of the best in the entire Southwest—Sauternes included! Very impressive is the flagship Chateau Tirecul la Gravière 2010, which shows heavy, preserved orange and white fruit notes lightened by a fine ray of acidity. The Cuvée Madame 2009 had a deep golden color from which notes of roasted apricot, honey, mocha, toast and graphite arose. The palate was unctuous and creamy, perfectly balanced by acids that will preserve this wine for the next 30 or 40 years. Imported by European Cellars, NC
Domaine de l’Ancienne Cure: This attractive hillside domaine is owned by Christian Roche, a fifth-generation wine grower who inherited part of the property from his parents, who had sold their grapes to the cooperative for years. At the end of the 1980s, Roche began bottling his own wine, giving his domaine the name of an old cure (a presbytery, or home for Catholic priests) that stands above the winery. Roche converted his 47-ha property to organic viticulture in 2010—not an easy endeavor on such a varied and large terrain. While he makes good dry whites and reds, his forté is Monbazillac. The soil here is full of minerals as well as organic matter, and it drains easily, forcing the roots to descend deeply. His 2010 L’Abbaye Monbazillac, made with 80% Muscadelle and 20% Sémillon, showed a wonderful deep golden color, aromas of dried apricot, vanilla and quince, and tremendous glycerin on the palate. The 2005 Extase is totally botrytized and made with 90% Sémillon and 10% Sauvignon Blanc; it showed an explosive nose that included caramel, nuts, dried apricot and honey, and it carried its 180 g/l of sugar with grace. Imported by Charles Neal Selections, CA
Vineyards in Monbazillac.
Saussignac AOPThe richest, sweetest wines of the region
While most people in the wine business have heard of the sweet wine Monbazillac, not many have heard of Saussignac, an appellation also devoted solely to sweet wines. Located about 10 kilometers southwest of the city of Bergerac, grapes in Saussignac must come from only four communes: Monestier, Gageac-et-Rouillac, Saussignac and Razac-de-Saussignac. Like Monbazillac, most of the vineyards are north-facing in a climate that encourages noble rot. Clay and brown silt soils sit atop clay and limestone that is often rich in iron. Permitted grape varieties are Sémillon, Muscadelle and Sauvignon Blanc, all of which legally must be harvested by hand. Chaptalization is not permitted, and the wines must have a residual sugar content of at least 68 g/l—but they usually contain upwards of 130. In good years, most of the grapes are affected by noble rot, and the harvest is conducted in numerous passes through the vineyards, during which only the botrytis-affected grapes are selected. Sweet wines from Saussignac are always liquoreux (very concentrated sweet wines) while Monbazillac runs the gamut from semi-sweet (moelleux) to liquoreux. Sweet wines from Saussignac are fantastic alternatives to sweet wines from Sauternes and must be viewed as the most noble liquoreux of the region. As in Monbazillac, most producers also have older vintages for sale, usually at very affordable prices.
Domaine Richard: Richard Doughty worked as an oceanographer before moving from his native Britain to study winemaking at La Tour Blanches in Sauternes. In 1988 he purchased a property in Saussignac which he has since expanded to 13 hectares. From the start Richard worked organically—preferring to invest in manpower rather than machines—and he has been a vocal supporter of the importance of Muscadelle, preferring to use older oak barrels and decrease reliance on added sulfur. “Saussignac has few producers with business sense,” he states when confronted with the general ignorance of his prized appellation. “We do, however, have more consistent wines than the other sweet regions in Bergerac. Stricter rules guarantee a particular richness here that you won’t find elsewhere.” His Coup de Coeur 2009, picked after several passes through the vines from small bunches of grapes, hits 230 g/l of residual sugar and is rich, concentrated and long, with notes of preserved fruit and brown sugar remarkably well-balanced by subtle acids. No known US importer.
Chateau La Payral: Thierry Daulhiac assumed control of his father’s vines in 1992; with his wife Isabelle he converted the estate to organic viticulture in 2005 and has been working biodynamically since 2010. The château makes an excellent, oak-aged dry white wine called Petite Fugue that incorporates a high proportion of Sauvignon Gris (60%). Additionally, there are several reds that showed rich, concentrated fruit (one of which had no added sulfur), and a a few of vintages of Saussignac are currently on offer. The 2006, harvested at 15 hl/ha, was aged in new oak for 18 months and showed notes of honey and golden raisins, dried apricots, and marzipan. A creamy, buttery richness and a lovely line of acidity helped tie everything together. Imported by Savio Soares Selections, NY
Côtes de Duras AOP
The Côtes de Duras is located about 30 minutes southwest of Bergerac and borders the eastern outreaches of Bordeaux. A handful of producers lie within the Gironde département (33), only a few miles from the Bordeaux border. Vines have been grown in the area since Gallo-Roman times, and there are references to its wines in records from the 12th century onward.
Duras itself is a highly visited town dominated by the Château de Duras, newly renovated and now a visible tourist attraction. First constructed during the 1100s and remade into an impenetrable stronghold in the 14th century, the château passed hands during the Hundred Years’ War between French dukes and English kings. During the English possession of Bordeaux and the Aquitaine, wines from the area were considered to be part of the Haut Pays Bordelais and were sold under that name by merchants in Bordeaux. Côtes de Duras was among the first wines to achieve appellation status in France in 1937.
Marguerite Donnadieu, the French novelist and filmmaker best known for Hiroshima Mon Amour, changed her name to Duras, the town where her father also owned a house. (And hey nerds: in Star Trek the House of Duras was one of the Great Houses of the Klingon Empire.)
The vineyards of Duras cover 1,524 hectares. This land is worked by 118 farmers, who sell their grapes to three cooperatives, and 72 independent producers who sell their wines in bottle. Duras was once especially known for its white wines; today, almost half of the wine produced is red, made from four permitted varieties: Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. About one-third of the vineyards are planted with white grapes (Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Muscadelle, Mauzac, Chenin Blanc, Ondenc and Ugni Blanc are permitted). And about 15% of the wines sold in the region are either rosé (normally deeply colored and hearty), or sweet (normally lighter-styled moelleux wines).
The climate in Duras is similar to that of Bordeaux, albeit with slightly less influence from the ocean and marginally higher temperatures due to its more interior location. Soils throughout the region contain white limestone covered by layers of clay, sand and, occasionally, gravel. Maximum yields for the white wines are 60 hl/ha, with 55 hl/ha allowed for the reds and 50 hl/ha allowed for the sweet wines.
Château Haut-Lavigne: Intriguing story of a brave, young Bordelaise woman, Nadia Lusseau, who studied wine near home and bought a 7½ hectares property planted on clay and limestone soils, then began converting to organic viticulture in 2005. Nadia works the property with only one part-time person, and is literally married to her vines. Although unsure what the image of Duras is, Nadia is content that at least more people seem to have at least heard of it nowadays—something which wasn’t the case when she began. While she makes a white wine, I was especially enamored by her reds, based around cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and a little malbec. They show great color and depth of fruit, and well-integrated, round tannins. The La Miss 2012, partially aged in tank and partially in barrel, would be a perfect match for steak-frites, while Mister 2010, aged for a year in barrel, was a big, thick cabernet sauvignon-scented wine which was, for all its extraction, very silky on the palate. Imported by Jenny and François, NY
Domaine Mouthes Le Bihan: Jean-Mary and Catherine Le Bihan (le petit or “small” in Breton) purchased this property in Saint-Jean-de Duras in 1998, not far from where Jean-Mary grew up. After accumulating some other vineyards, they now have 25 hectares of vines, all of which are worked biodynamically. Their first vintage was in 2000; over time they have become better winemakers, even as their original ideal—wine is made in the vineyard and not the cave—has remained as strong as ever. Fertilizer is limited to horse manure (from the 30 horses they also raise on the property) and yeasts are always indigenous. Wines are aged in fiberglass tanks and barrels, and sulfur is kept to a minimum. A wide range of wines are made at the property—with and without oak, dry, sweet and pink. In an appellation where much of the production is standardized by the cooperative’s expectations, Le Bihan is the most progressive producer in the area. And Jean-Mary still believes in the potential of Duras; he just wishes most of the other producers made better wines that heightened the image of the appellation. Some highlights from a tasting in his kitchen include the full-bodied Vieillefont 2012 (60% Sémillon, 20% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Muscadelle, aged in both tank and barrel), which showed exotic notes of pear, pineapple and vanilla, and Pierrette et les Noisetieres 2009 (100% Sémillon, vinified dry), which showed round, exotic and buttery fruit and a slight hint of petrol—like Burgundy meeting Alsace, with substantial glycerin balanced nicely by crisp citrus acidity on the finish. La Pie Colette 2013 (Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon) is aged in tank and meant to be drunk young. The color is a lovely ruby, the tannins soft and the fruit generous—a rare example of a regional red wine that can be enjoyed on hot summer days, especially with a chill. Les Apprentis 2009 (60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged for 18 months in barrel without racking) showed deep, dark fruit on the nose and palate, followed by a lovely suave texture and well-integrated tannins on the finish. This would be a great accompaniment to duck breast or a rare entrecôte. Imported by Avant-Garde Wine and Spirits, NY
The Le Bihan family.
Côtes de Marmandais AOP
About 20 kilometers south of Duras, one descends a long, gradual hill to arrive in Marmande, a city with a population of around 20,000, slightly less than that of Bergerac. Located just above the north bank of the Garonne River (which will eventually meet the Dordogne in Bodeaux), Marmande, like Bergerac, is not a very attractive city. Most of the facades of buildings could use a facelift, with plenty of peeling paint on otherwise gray streets. The city was founded in 1195 by Richard the Lionheart. During the 15th and 16th centuries, it passed between English and French hands a number of times. Historically not much of note has happened here, but the region is a hotbed of vegetable and fruit production. Pruneau d’Agen, a famous prune controlled by an appellation, is grown around Marmande, but the region is also famous for its tomatoes, renowned throughout Gascony for their intensely deep, natural flavors. A festival every August celebrates their deliciousness whether eaten raw or cooked.
Marmande has a continental climate tempered by its proximity to the ocean (it’s a 90-minute drive away). The great majority of wine made in Marmande is red or rosé (97%) made from Merlot (comprising 40% of the appellation), Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. But Syrah, Fer Servadou, Malbec and Gamay are also permitted, in addition to a grape Marmande can call its own—Abouriou. Pronounced a-boar-e-o, it is a grape native to the Lot-et-Garonne département and was first cited in the 18th century. The grape almost disappeared between 1970 and 1980 as producers shifted toward more well-known varieties, but a conservatory was established in the region in 2004 with the sole aim of protecting it. Abouriou gives high yields and is resistant to many maladies, making it relatively easy to grow. It has high tannin levels and low acidity, and it is prone to oxidation, making its élévage a bit tricky. It is usually blended with other grapes, although a few versions of pure Abouriou have surfaced. The red wines tend to have deep color with forthcoming fruit that evokes cassis and blackberry, along with a certain rusticity that works well with the heavy Gascon cuisine of duck, game and stews. With rosé wines, a note of red currant is often detected.
White wines make up only 3% of the production in Marmande, incorporating Sauvignon Blanc and up to 30% of Sémillon, Muscadelle and/or Ugni Blanc. The whites have considerably less character than the reds yet are generally well-made and provide good-value drinking.
Vines are grown on both sides of the Garonne River on the fertile hillsides of 27 different communes. The appellation totals about 850 hectares (half the size of the Côtes de Duras). South of the Garonne, known locally as the “left bank,” sand, clay and gravel soils with a good deal of sea sediment abound and resemble the terroir of more famous upriver communes including Sauternes and Graves. Syrah, Sauvignon Blanc and Abouriou grow well here. To the north of the Garonne—the “right bank”—the clay and limestone soils resemble those of nearby Entre-deux-Mers, and the area is especially accommodating to Merlot, Malbec and Abouriou.
Most of the producers in Marmande, which gained appellation status as recently as 1990, belong to the cooperative. Only seven independent producers exist in the region—a small handful that converted to organic viticulture over the past few years. A total of 6.5 million bottles of wine are produced annually.
Cave Coopérative du Cocumont: There were once two cooperatives in Marmande, but in 2004 the once-rival facilities in Beaupuy and Cocumont merged. Several years later Beaupuy on the right bank closed and all production moved to Cocumont, on the left. This cooperative, with its 122 members, now represents 95% of the appellation’s production. Wines from the cooperative are widely available at supermarkets around the southwest. I particularly enjoyed a 2012 wine called Just Abouriou which, despite its name, is made with 70% Abouriou and 30% Merlot. From its deep color came aromas of red and black fruits, a full-bodied round texture, and well-integrated tannins on the finish. It made a perfect accompaniment to duck hearts grilled over coals. No known US importer.
Domaine du Chante Coucou: Elian da Ros, a Gascon with Italian heritage, grew up on his family farm in Cocumont and always wanted to work with wine. In fact, he remembers coming up with the name Chante Coucou (the coucou sings) as an adolescent—he would later give the moniker to one of his wines. But in his early 20s, Elian left the area to work at Zind-Humbrecht in Alsace for five years, becoming committed to biodynamic farming and single-parcel vinification. Upon his return to Cocumont in 1998, he began putting the ideas he had acquired into practice with the grapes he had grown up with—new methods totally foreign to Marmande and the Southwest in general. He has gone on to become one of the most acclaimed producers from an unknown appellation.
Located on the left bank, Elian’s vineyards contain gravel, limestone and silt, and certain releases always come from certain parcels. “The soil gives, I follow,” Elian states. “I am not going to try to make a wine from a parcel that can’t produce it.” He works his 16 hectares of massale selection vines biodynamically; harvest is by hand and yeasts are indigenous. In his humid cellar, Elian uses open-top fermenters or more reductive barrels; he de-stems some grapes and ferments others with their entire clusters intact; he may or may not perform pigeage; and he always bottles without filtration. It all depends on the progression of each wine.
During my visit, Elian pulled a number of wines, starting with Le Vin Est Une Fete! (“Wine is a party!”), his everyday wine made with 40% Abouriou, 40% Cabernet Franc and 20% Merlot. Deeply colored, it showed blackberry and creamy licorice (reminiscent of Malbec) as well as some floral aromas. Le Vinoble d’Elian (50% Cabernet Franc, 30% Merlot and 20% Syrah) had, like most of the domaine’s wines, a tremendously suave texture in which the Cabernet Franc aromas dominated. Chante Coucou (50% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Malbec and 10% Syrah), grown on clay and gravel soils, had firm yet fine tannins and notes of blackcurrant and dark berries. Clos Baquey is grown on limestone and is made with one-third each of Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Abouriou. The grapes are completely de-stemmed, aged in open-top fermenters with manual pigeage, and raised in barrels for 22 months. The 2010 is finally in bottle; Elian described as “a bomb” and it exploded with Cabernet Franc aromas, demonstrating little of the reduction some of this other barrel-aged wines showed. “With this wine I’m looking to raise it like Barolo,” he states, “and age it like Clos Rougeard.” Da Ros also makes a little rosé from Abouriou; its deep color was reminiscent of Irouléguy. “Sometimes I bottle early, sometimes late,” he claims, “and the color changes every year—which isn’t always easy for my clients.” In addition, a Chante Coucou Blanc is produced, made with 60% Sémillon and 40% Sauvignon Blanc. The 2013 had a rich palate and exuded notes of applesauce and nuts. The 2008 had finer, more exotic aromas, with plenty of finesse. Imported by Jolivin, CA; Oz Wine Company, MA, MFW, NY, Vin de Garde, OR
Buzet AOP
Buzet lies west of Agen in the Lot-et-Garonne département. Achieving appellation status in 1973 as Côtes de Buzet, the AOP’s name was abbreviated to Buzet in 1988. Buzet’s vineyards run along the Baïse River which, 20 kilometers further downstream, flows into the Garonne. As in Bergerac, the climate here is a tempered blend of maritime and continental, with less rain and slightly warmer temperatures than Bordeaux. Grape plantings are similar to those in Bordeaux and Bergerac, with Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc dominating the red wines. Yet Malbec can also be planted, as can Abouriou and Petit Verdot (although the latter two cannot be combined for more than 10% of the blend and are, frankly, rarely seen).
Production of reds grossly outweighs that of whites (only 5,000 of the nearly 13 million bottles sold from the region are white). This tiny production of white grapes is dominated by Bordeaux varieties, with Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon and Muscadelle comprising the majority of plantings, although a 10% maximum blend of Petit Manseng, Colombard and/or Gros Manseng is also allowed. Rosé wine is also produced and is usually made with Cabernet Franc. These deeply colored pink wines have adequate structure to work with rich foods, not unlike clairet rosé in Bordeaux.
Buzet’s 2,000 hectares of vineyards are planted on limestone and clay, gravel, and sandy soils with small pieces of limestone (boulbénes), which help Cabernet Franc to express its more floral perfume.
While there are about one-dozen independent producers in the region, the Buzet appellation is dominated by the cooperative known as the Vignerons de Buzet, which was formed in 1953. Most of the independent producers belonged to the co-op before they bought out their contracts to pursue their own winemaking goals. While most independent producers still show respect for the coop, many displayed frustration with their ability to be reviewed by the national press: it seems some of the large French magazines ask producers to consolidate their samples at a central source—in this case the Vignerons de Buzet headquarters. Oddly, wines from the smaller producers rarely get mentioned in the reviews. It’s as if their samples, for one reason or another, never made their way to the reviewers…
Fill 'er up in Buzet.
Les Vignerons de Buzet: This cooperative, long thought to be one of the best run in France, has 198 members who farm 1,870 hectares of vines, or roughly 94% of the appellation’s production. Their charter disallows the use of synthetic fertilizers and chemical weed killers, and it encourages biodiversity. The production facility is located in Buzet-sur-Baïse and, between bulk wines, bag-in-the-box and bottles, the co-op sells over 12 million bottles a year. 18% is exported. The co-op used to have its own cooperage across the street, but this closed several years ago. Now, their aging cellars contain some 2,000 barrels; some are new, but the majority are old barrels, carrying wines whose oak flavor comes through wood chips. Together, their two bottling lines ready over 20,000 bottles an hour. Inside their boutique (akin to a small supermarket for their wines), over thirty different bottlings are available, broken down into categories like light and fruity or aromatic and structured or powerful and elegant. Some of these bear the name of an actual property from where they come, while others are simply proprietary names. As a co-op, they are also willing to please every potential client, so they do have some wines that are organic and some without any additional sulfur. They have pale rosés and deeply colored rosés. Their wines are widely available in supermarket chains across France, as well as the lists of many regional restaurants. I particularly like the Baron d’Ardeuil, made with nearly equal parts of the Bordelaise varieties. Its aromatic nose and soft texture made it ideal with a blanquette de veau. Château de Gueyze, made with lower yields and aged in more new oak, is a wine that will benefit from several years aging, to be eventually enjoyed with rare duck breast or Tournedos Rossini, for example. Imported by Baron Francois, NY
Château de Pech: Like most producers in this small appellation, Daniel Tissot was not from the area—his surname and family belong to the Jura. He moved to Buzet in the 1980s but died in 1997, when his daughter Magali and partner Ludovic took over. By 2003 they began working their vineyards biodynamically. Today they farm 17 hectares of vineyards planted on gravel, limestone and clay soils in Sainte-Colombe-en-Brulhois. Seven hectares are planted with Merlot, five with Cabernet Franc, and four with Cabernet Sauvignon.
Only organic products are used to nourish the vines. Medicinal plants are favored over copper and sulfur. The soil is tilled by a horse and plow. Harvest is by hand. Permitted yields within the appellation are 55 hl/ha, but Pech usually works with less than 35 hl/ha. After a careful sorting, the wines begin fermenting with only indigenous yeast. Some lots are crushed by foot! Some are aged in demi-muids and others in large foudres, for 3-5 years. Minimal amounts of sulfur are used at bottling. I tasted a number of wines with Ludovic and particularly liked Le Pech Abusé, aged in ancient foudres for 4 years. This deeply colored red had rich texture and intense notes of earthy blackcurrant. While the Badinerie du Pech was still closed on the nose, the palate opened up to show ripe red and black fruit, round tannin, and the wine proved to be a wonderful partner for daube des cèpes (porcini mushroom stew) later that evening. I also tried a dry white made with Sauvignon Blanc, aged for 14 months in older demi-muids. This wine has impressive texture, but it lacked some of the varietal character one expects from pure Sauvignon. Magali and Ludovic are certainly warriors in an appellation not known for its originality, but their wines sometimes exhibit notes often seen in natural wines, like severe reduction or dominant animal qualities. No known US importer.
Domaine Courège-Longue: After studying winemaking in Bordeaux ,working at Château Barbanau in Provence, and Château de Mirail in the Côtes de Gascogne, David Sazi returned home in 2010 and took over his father’s vines while renting a few additional parcels. He now organically farms 5.5 hectares in Fuegarolles, from which he makes five wines. Soils blend clay, limestone, and sand with small limestone pieces and gravel—elements he feels give his wines finer tannin. In his small winery he runs two basket presses and then ages in stainless steel and cement tanks along with wooden barrels. For summer pleasure, Sazi makes a white moelleux with Gros Manseng purchased in the Côtes de Gascogne, and a rosé from Cabernet Sauvignon. But the reds are his most interesting wines: I tasted a couple of vintages of the oak-aged Vieilles Vignes, made from 45-year-old vines (50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 50% Merlot). The 2012 had a ripe nose combining plums, red fruit and a medium- to full-bodied structure that showed fine tannins. The 2010 had a deeper inner core of red fruits and a classy musk note that also showed floral overtones. Family Tradition is aged in tank and provides more immediate but less compelling drinking. A Thomas Calder Selection. Imported by Free Run Wines, WA and Sacred Thirst, CA
Brulhois AOP
Brulhois lies about 20 kilometers east of Buzet, just below the city of Agen. Once the Côtes de Brulhois VDQS, Brulhois achieved appellation status (and a shortened name) in 2011. Brulhois is equidistant from the Atlantic and the Mediterranean, and both bodies of water influence its climate. There is a decent amount of annual rainfall, but warm winds from the Mediterranean help grapes to achieve optimum ripeness late in the season.
Brulhois only makes red and rosé wines, from Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and (unlike the other regions in this installment) Tannat. Fer Servadou and Malbec are also permitted, although they are less frequently employed. The wines, as one might imagine, are deeply colored and hearty; they make great pairings with regional specialties like duck and prunes, or a rare steak with cèpes.
Located not far from the Garonne River, the appellation straddles the Lot-et-Garonne, Gers and Tarn-et-Garonne départements. Merlot is fond of the limestone and clay soils scattered around the region, while Tannat and Cabernet Sauvignon favor the clay and gravel soils found in its ancient riverbeds. Cabernet Franc prefers what people here call boulbénes—sandy soils with small limestone pebbles.
This is another appellation where production is dominated by the cooperative. While focused on wine, most of the handful of independent producers supplement their income with additional crops, including sunflowers, grains and fruit. Very few wines from Brulhois are exported; most is sold either at the cooperative or in local supermarkets.
Côtes de Gascogne
The Côtes de Gascogne is a vast expanse of vines that covers nearly 13,000 hectares within the Gers department of Southwest France, a region considered by most to be the heart of Gascony. Unlike the Dordogne, the Gers isn’t highly trafficked by those from abroad, and most tourists come to enjoy the peacefulness of the area’s rolling hills that are covered by a patchwork of green, gold and yellow fields. Its unspoiled natural beauty, medieval towns, sunny skies, and distant views of the Pyrenees Mountains leads some to describe the Côtes de Gascogne as the Tuscany of France.
The Côtes de Gascogne is now the largest white wine producing in France and the largest wine-producing area in Southwest France. 1,200 producers grow grapes and about a tenth of those bottle wines at their domaines. While a great deal of these wines are consumed in the region, 75% of Côtes de Gascogne wine is exported. White wine makes up 80% of production (65% dry and 15% medium sweet), while
10% of the production is red and 10% rosé.
This region, however, has not always been so well known for its wines. In fact, until 1980, very little of the wine produced in the region was ever consumed; instead, it was distilled into region’s famous brandy, Armagnac. In addition to the stalwart Baco 22-A, Armagnac’s principal grapes are Ugni Blanc and Colombard. In the Ténarèze and eastern part of the Bas-Armagnac where the soils are clay and limestone as opposed to sand, growers discovered that the latter two, when they were cropped lower, given a little more time in the vineyard, and fermented under temperature control, produced wines that were highly aromatic and full of grapefruit-scented fruit, especially when the acidity was balanced by a little residual sugar. What’s more, because the yields were high, the wines could be produced for a song—even now, most Côtes de Gascogne whites retail for less than ten bucks a bottle.
In addition to the Armagnac grapes, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc are also planted; these are occasionally blended with other grapes but usually released on their own for those looking for recognizable, single-varietal wines.
Over the past ten years, white wines from the area have evolved. Gros Manseng, a grape most frequently seen in Jurançon Sec wines, is growing in popularity, giving wines that have higher alcohol, longer-lived acidity and notes of exotic citrus fruits. The region also permits Chenin Blanc in the vineyards, although few producers have planted it. Côtes de Gascogne wines are delicious on their own or with seafood, composed salads and light-bodied fish.
The region also makes red wines (after all, the regional cuisine is based around duck, game birds, pork and other rich foods), but they have not yet caught the attention of the international public. Based on Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Tannat, the wines have a rusticity that doesn’t resonate with consumers looking for “easy” wines in the $12 price point, especially when compared to reds from Spain or New World countries. This might change in the future, however, as Syrah is now permitted and may help to create softer, more approachable wines.
Ugni Blanc hanging on the vine in Gascony.
Producteurs du Plaimont: In 1973, Andre Duboscq traveled to Germany, drank Riesling, and had a vision that the high-acid white grapes of his region could be vinified in tank and bottled with a little residual sugar to create highly enjoyable quaffers. When the Armagnac market began to wane at the end of the 1970s, he organized hundreds of growers and formed a well-run cooperative called Plaimont, whose name came from the abbreviations of the towns where the three production facilities were located: “Pl” for Plaisance, “ai” for Aignan and “mont” for St. Mont. Since that time, the Plaimont Producers have purchased Madiran’s co-op in Crouseilles and a Côtes de Gascogne co-op in Condom, and the business has collected over 1,000 members and controls 5,300 hectares of grapes. Most known for their Côtes de Gascogne (they produce nearly 50% of the IGPs output), they also make wines from Madiran and Pacherenc du Vic Bilh (actually 48% of those appellation’s productions), and a staggering 98% of the production in Saint-Mont AOP. Despite such large production, the wines are correctly made, pleasurable, and packaged according to market trends. While not deep or complex, it is possible that their 25 export countries would have never heard of the region had it not been for this highly professional and pioneering cooperative.
Château de Tariquet: If the Plaimont coopérative controls the most vines in the region, Château de Tariquet owns the most vines. Their dominance of the market began in the 1980s when Yves Grassa began replanting his father’s Armagnac vines and purchasing vineyards from neighboring proprietors in and around Eauze. The Grassa empire has grown to cover over 1,200 hectares, and Grassa also buys grapes. They are, by far, the largest independent producer in the region. In Normandy, Savoie, Paris, Provence and the Loire, Tariquet is seen on multiple wine lists. (And in about forty different countries, too!) They are, both at home and abroad, the independent leader and largely responsible for waving the Côtes de Gascogne flag in quality establishments. Never resting on their laurels, they continue to make consistent wines that give a lot of pleasure, especially if you like rich textures. While they have cut down on the number of labels in their arsenal, their wines are most commonly seen as Domaine de Pouy, Domaine la Hitaire and, of course, Château de Tariquet. It is not true to say that the popularity of the Côtes de Gascogne wouldn’t have hit such heights without the existence of Tariquet, but it is not difficult to make that argument either. In short, they did for this IGP what Alain Brumont did for Madiran. Imported by Robert Kacher Selections, with various US distributers.
Domaine Duffour: These wines are produced at the Domaine de Saint Lannes, named after the 12th-century church whose ruins stand next to the property and from which they also release wines under the name Domaine de Salettes. From their 70 hectares of vines, Michel and his son Nicolas vinify their white wines primarily with Colombard, which is usually present in at least 80% of their white blends. They recently modernized their winery, lining its floor with more efficient temperature-controlled tanks. While also releasing red, off-dry and sweet wines, their forté is in the dry white. It shows grapefruit, citrus fruit and a floral component in its explosive bouquet, and its bright acidity beckons tasters to partake in a second or third glass. Imported by Skurnik Wines, NY and Charles Neal Selections, CA
Domaine Chiroulet: Chiroulet, local patois for the whistling sound the wind makes as it sails over the rolling hills, has enjoyed equal acclaim for reds and white wines. Son Philippe Fezas, a long-time representative at cooper Seguin-Moreau, is largely responsible for these Merlot-based wines at this 45-ha property. (He always includes a bit of tannat to retain regional typicity.) But his whites are some of the best in the region too, including perhaps the most complex Côtes de Gasconge on the market: Terres Blanches, made with 50% Gros Manseng, 40% Sauvignon Blanc and a little Ugni Blanc. La Côte d’Heux, a pure Gros Manseng, has more texture and exotic fruit notes enclosed by tender acids. Imported by Charles Neal Selections, CA and Thomas Meunier Selections, NC and MD
Château de Pellehaut: Brothers Martin and Mathieu Beraut direct this 250-ha property in Montreal-du-Gers, the canton that has the highest output of wine in the entire Côtes de Gascogne. The Harmonie blanc often includes a little Folle Blanche and exudes notes of citrus fruit. Their reds are also excellent; the star is Les Marcottes, a barrel-aged blend of Merlot and Tannat that shows more roundness than you would expect in a wine with so much regional character. Pellehaut is perhaps the top producer of Armagnac from the Armagnac-Ténarèze AOC, where their vineyards are located. Imported by Chambers and Chambers, California, Martin Scott, New York, Connoisseur Wines, Chicago
Domaine de Pajot: This is a 60-ha domaine in Eauze that makes all colors of dry wine, a sweet wine, Floc de Gascogne and Armagnac. One of the few organic producers in the region, Pajot began its environmentally respectful journey in 2001. The domaine’s Les 4 Cepages incorporates four grapes—Ugni Blanc, Colombard, Sauvignon Blanc and Gros Manseng—and delivers plenty of zippy fruit and freshness, especially when consumed in its first two years of life. Imported by Grape Expectations, CA, OR, WA, Polaner Selections, NY, Cream Wine, IL
Great article just Amazzzzinggg
Fantastic article! Cheers.
Thank you for this, Charles!
Amazing!! Thanks Charles