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For a student of wine, Italy presents arguably the mosnt dizzying abundance of native grape varieties, appellations, and wine styles of any nation. While the country’s unmatched diversity might induce confusion, the study of its wines is among the most rewarding of subjects. The world’s highest volume of wine is produced in Italy, and vineyards are cultivated in each of its 20 regions. The country is perhaps best known for its red wines, with collectors regularly gravitating toward Super Tuscans and the three B’s: Barolo, Barbaresco, and Brunello di Montalcino. Yet, importantly, its palette also includes the best-selling sparkling wine worldwide by volume, Prosecco; the most established regions for sparkling reds; a series of overlooked, ageworthy whites; fortified wines that, like Madeira, once also endured long sea voyages; and the most extensive tradition of dried-grape wines found anywhere.
The boot’s contributions to the wine industry are not new. Ancient Rome vinified some of the most prized delicacies of the classical world, its soldiers helped spread the vine across the Mediterranean basin and beyond, and its scholars provided the most significant primary accounts of early wine. Italy’s influence continues today, as its winegrowers harness the potential of the country’s indigenous grapes with renewed energy and continue to balance their dignified traditions with a spirit of innovation captured in their finest bottles.
Much of the discussion about ancient winegrowing on the Italian Peninsula centers on the Romans, but viticulture is known to have begun long before Rome’s founding, traditionally—though tenuously—dated to 753 BCE. The precise origins of Italian viticulture remain unclear, especially in light of the discovery in 2017 of wine residue on ceramic storage vessels found in a cave at Monte